At the Sauvignon Blanc Celebration in Marlborough earlier this year, a couple of influential overseas critics cautioned against wholesale changes to the style of wine that our export markets have come to know and love.
In essence, it was an ''if it ain't broke, don't fix it'' moment.
The bold-as-brass, pungently fruited sauvignon blancs that are classically Marlborough have won hearts around the world, and the aforementioned critics were concerned that tinkering with the style could diffuse the message, potentially alienating our fan base.
Is this really likely to happen?
I think not.
Our major brands and other larger producers have viticulture, winemaking and marketing teams that are totally savvy (forgive the pun) to the stylistic preferences of their overseas markets and are unlikely to incorporate change for change's sake.
Innovation and experimentation remain incredibly important tools in the fast-moving world of wine if wineries want to lead the pack, but they are more often expressed in subtle changes and fine-tuning to make the wines the very best they can be.
While there are some who criticise the dominant Marlborough style as a one-trick pony, we Kiwis do love to tinker, and the offshoots of experimentation are a raft of sauvignon blancs that offer interpretations and expressions of this grape, which create a point of difference: separate from, but alongside well-known renditions.
Winemaking techniques such as natural (aka wild) yeast fermentation, longer grape-skin contact with the fermenting juice, oak fermentation and maturation, the use of egg-shaped or amphora fermentation vessels and judicious blending can create a variety of aromas, flavours and textural components which can be thrillingly different.
These wines will be more costly to make, priced accordingly, and can be more suited as an accompaniment to food while broadening your wine-drinking horizons.
Here are three wines that break the mould.
Price: $31
Rating: Excellent to outstanding
Attractively perfumed nose with guava and musk, before tropical fruits and pineapple join in. Texturally inviting with citrus, smoke, nashi pear and, later, a grassy backdrop.
Fruit sweetness with a nicely long, crisp finish, adding a whisper of hedgerow; this shows lovely balance and complexity; building in depth and interest.
Price (cellar door): $43
Rating: Very good to excellent
Pungent nose that shouts sauv blanc: grassy yet with a honeyed sweetness before asparagus and canned peas make their presence felt. The palate echoes the nose, adding a lovely undercurrent of citrusy acidity nodding at ripe grapefruit.
A big powerful style that wears its developed notes with pride, tapering on the close.
Price: $38-40
Rating: Excellent
Matchstick, smoky wild yeast, florality, elderflower and sage. Opens to a creamy texture with crunchy Red Delicious apples and subtle hints of orange; musk and a waft of gooseberry appearing with time. A beautifully integrated wine showing great complexity and vinosity yet far from being clear-cut sauv blanc.
A wine to contemplate.
