A little while back I greatly enjoyed tasting my way through a raft of Central Otago chardonnays. Now we head to Waipara, Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay.
I still often hear people say they don’t drink chardonnay (sigh), and can’t help but feel they are missing out.
I was chuffed then, when a friend was chatting about the wedding plans of his elder son and fiancée, who have chosen a chardonnay as their key white wine, citing its drinkability and how well it complements food.
An excellent choice, Finn!
2020 Zephyr Organic Marlborough Chardonnay
Rating Very good to excellent
Leads with some
struck match and
smoky notes and ,
minerality. The fruit
beginning to swell,
nuts and a citrus
aspect; a dry honey-
like note with time. The
palate revisits that
stony minerality and
nuttiness. The fruit is
definitely there in a
supporting role, and a
touch of orange citrus
zest adds a bittersweet
quality with a hint of
struck match reduction
still evident.
2023 Rapaura Springs Bouldevines Vineyard Marlborough Chardonnay
Rating Excellent
Gunflint, toasty oak
nuances, nectarine,
citrus zest, attractive
fragrance building. The
palate continues that
journey, lovely balance,
freshness to the fore,
matched by good depth
of flavour. Vibrant,
zesty with that cooling
citrus aspect framing
the close as some nice
chewiness comes into
play. This grows nicely
with aeration and is
quite moreish.
2023 Tapi Marlborough Chardonnay
Rating Very good to excellent
Quince and melon
notes, spice and
smoke, rather than
big, an engaging
subtlety. That finer
style resumes on the
palate, creamy texture
evolving to chalky
phenolic hints which
add to the textural
interest. Good length.
Initially feels a lighter
style but air dispels
that notion as both
nose and palate swell,
picking up oak and
piquant greengage
plum notes.
2023 Blank Canvas Reed Vineyard Marlborough Chardonnay
Rating Outstanding
Gunflint, bonfire
embers, a schisty
quality, citrus touches,
spice hints, ripe fruit
with neatly judged oak
seasoning. Lovely
complexity. Serious and
refined, each sip reveals
another layer. There are
deft winemaker
influences here but the
wine comes across as
effortless. Beautifully
integrated and complex,
the flavours hang in the
mouth. Classy stuff.
2020 Pegasus Bay Virtuoso Chardonnay
Rating Excellent
Signature powerful
struck match and
bonfire embers lead,
parting to reveal ripe
peach, spices and
honeyed brioche, grilled
nuts later. Undoubted
power, intensity and
creaminess once it
sheds some of those
reductive notes, picking
up orange zest, toffee
and spice. Tasted over
several hours, the palate
was superb later in the
day, so perhaps decant
and let it breathe.
2023 Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 23.09.24
Rating Very good to excellent
Distinctively
chardonnay, with
notes of peach,
apricot, spice and
warm brioche. The
palate shows a
lighter touch, not
quite as expressive
as the nose, adding
a tinge of salinity.
The texture carries
this nicely with a
cooling influence.
Easy drinkability and
hits the refreshment
factor.