Raising a toast to drinkable, appealing chardonnays

A little while back I greatly enjoyed tasting my way through a raft of Central Otago chardonnays. Now we head to Waipara, Marlborough and Hawke’s Bay.

I still often hear people say they don’t drink chardonnay (sigh), and can’t help but feel they are missing out. I was chuffed then, when a friend was chatting about the wedding plans of his elder son and fiancée, who have chosen a chardonnay as their key white wine, citing its drinkability and how well it complements food. An excellent choice, Finn!

 

2020 Zephyr Organic Marlborough Chardonnay 

 
Price RRP $31.99
Rating Very good to excellent
 
Leads with some 
struck match and 
smoky notes and , 
minerality. The fruit 
beginning to swell, 
nuts and a citrus 
aspect; a dry honey-
like note with time. The 
palate revisits that 
stony minerality and 
nuttiness. The fruit is 
definitely there in a 
supporting role, and a 
touch of orange citrus 
zest adds a bittersweet 
quality with a hint of 
struck match reduction 
still evident.
 
 

2023 Rapaura Springs Bouldevines Vineyard Marlborough Chardonnay

 
Price RRP $45.99
Rating Excellent
 
Gunflint, toasty oak 
nuances, nectarine, 
citrus zest, attractive 
fragrance building. The 
palate continues that 
journey, lovely balance, 
freshness to the fore, 
matched by good depth 
of flavour. Vibrant, 
zesty with that cooling 
citrus aspect framing 
the close as some nice 
chewiness comes into 
play. This grows nicely 
with aeration and is 
quite moreish.
 
 

2023 Tapi Marlborough Chardonnay

 
Price RRP $33
Rating Very good to excellent
 
Quince and melon 
notes, spice and 
smoke, rather than 
big, an engaging 
subtlety. That finer 
style resumes on the 
palate, creamy texture 
evolving to chalky 
phenolic hints which 
add to the textural 
interest. Good length. 
Initially feels a lighter 
style but air dispels 
that notion as both 
nose and palate swell, 
picking up oak and 
piquant greengage 
plum notes. 
 
 

2023 Blank Canvas Reed Vineyard Marlborough Chardonnay

 
Price RRP $55
Rating Outstanding
 
Gunflint, bonfire 
embers, a schisty 
quality, citrus touches, 
spice hints, ripe fruit 
with neatly judged oak 
seasoning. Lovely 
complexity. Serious and 
refined, each sip reveals 
another layer. There are 
deft winemaker 
influences here but the 
wine comes across as 
effortless. Beautifully 
integrated and complex, 
the flavours hang in the 
mouth. Classy stuff.  
 
 

2020 Pegasus Bay Virtuoso Chardonnay

 
Price RRP $67
Rating Excellent
 
Signature powerful 
struck match and 
 bonfire embers lead, 
parting to reveal ripe 
peach, spices and 
honeyed brioche, grilled 
nuts later. Undoubted 
power, intensity and 
creaminess once it 
sheds some of those 
reductive notes, picking 
up orange zest, toffee 
and spice. Tasted over 
several hours, the palate 
was superb later in the 
day, so perhaps decant 
and let it breathe.
 
 

2023 Trinity Hill Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 23.09.24

 
Price RRP $24.99
Rating Very good to excellent
 
Distinctively 
chardonnay, with 
notes of peach, 
apricot, spice and 
warm brioche. The 
palate shows a 
lighter touch, not 
quite as expressive 
as the nose, adding 
a tinge of salinity. 
The texture carries 
this nicely with a 
cooling influence. 
Easy drinkability and 
hits the refreshment 
factor.