Pinot gris was becoming somewhat of a darling yet there were still relatively few producers and precious little volume, which made procuring wine for lists a juggling act.
Fast forward to today and so ingrained is pinot gris in our wine culture that it can be hard to remember that it was once a newbie.
In the mix today, though, is a relative newbie in the guise of a blanc de noir (literally a white vilified from ‘‘black’’ grapes, in this case pinot noir), with this wine style gaining a following.
Marlborough Pinot Gris
Price RRP $25
Rating Excellent
Very aromatic, perfume bounds out of the glass, musk shifting to a deeper register, adding boiled sweets and pear.
Pear notes drive the palate, just ripe apricot and a creamy/lactic quality; nice flavour depth & interest.
The palate develops a creamy texture, initially drier but as it fleshes out there’s a whisper of more fruit sweetness on the finish.
Quite simply very drinkable.
Collection Central Otago Pinot Gris
Price RRP $30
Rating Excellent
The nose moves between nuts, quince and pear, gives a drier impression, fleshing out with air.
Lovely fruit depth without feeling over-sweet, balanced & integrated with a touch of cashew nut and a citrus undercurrent.
Picks up a honeyed note mid-palate yet a hint of tanginess on the close reinforces the dry close.
Good length, confident in its own skin.
Pinot Gris
Price RRP $32
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Pear scents, nashi pear too, nuts and fragrance as the nose turns up the volume.
Quite juicy in the mouth, some fruit-pithy thenolics too which add to the textural impact.
The fruit dances between pear and mandarin, good acidity to keep this fresh, clearly dry and with the fruit weight to carry that dryness well.
Long close with wisps of lemon peel.
Hits the refreshment factor.
Pinot Gris
Price RRP $20.90
Rating Very Good to Excellent
Wisps of pear moving to stonefruits (apricot) with a little gum.
Youthfully bright, almost crunchy in the mouth, crisp & racy acidity contrasting the fruit sweetness.
Adds citrus zest to the mix with a hint of dry honey, and while it appears sweeter with air time, it closes just off-dry.
That crisp acidity would make this a great company to food.
Canterbury Pinot Gris
Price RRP $21.99
Rating Excellent
Struck match and smoke notes lead, parting to show off the vibrant stonefruit and pear notes, honey later.
Engaging nose.
Richness & creaminess in the mouth before a line of acidity kicks in, bringing cooling freshness.
Again pear & stonefruits, fruit cordial too, with a wilder savoury note.
Fruit sweetness but closes just off-dry.
Plenty to enjoy here.
School House Bendigo Pinot Gris
Price RRP $42
Rating Very Good to Excellent
Subtle nose at first, teasing out pear, stonefruits and a hint of stony minerality, a wisp of funk too.
The palate more expressive, adding cooked apple, closing relatively dry.
A game of two halves as this kicks into gear with air, the nose opens up, the palate fleshes out and it grows in length, showing a touch more sweetness now but still closing fairly dry.
Dress Circle Pinot Gris
Price RRP $34
Rating Very Good to Excellent
Fragrance and perfume to the fore, a sense of dryness, then subtle notes of red apple, nectarine and pear.
The palate is all about freshness and coolness, the fruit expression featuring stonefruits with a wisp of spiced apple on the close.
Feels nicely integrated and in the slot to enjoy now.
Bannockburn Blanc de Noir
Price RRP $55
Rating Excellent
Volume and richness apparent, snippets of peach, spice and savoury notes but more about the whole.
The palate turns things on its head, crisp, fine, bright acidity lending super raciness.
Stonefruits & citrus zest, touches of tingly fruit sherbet joining the party with an incredibly long, dry close.
Crunchy, zesty and rather appealing.
