Amongst the plethora of new grapes beginning to spread over our vinous landscape is the white grape Gruner Veltliner.
Native to Austria, it can produce a range of styles from the approachable, easy-drinking wines commonly seen in their local heuriger (wine taverns), right through to seriously, weighty, complex examples (from the Wachau given the designation smaragd) capable of considerable bottle age.
Blind tastings have been held internationally where examples of Gruner Veltliner have been tasted alongside White Burgundy (Chardonnay), where with bottle age they can be difficult to tell apart (having been involved with one of these recently, I can attest to this).
As well as its Austrian heartland, it is grown in the Czech Republic and Hungary and is beginning to gain a foothold in New Zealand, Australia and the US.
Austrian versions became super popular in American restaurants a few years ago where it was sometimes dubbed the ''Gru-vee grape'', avoiding any difficulties with the pronunciation, and have become commonplace on wine lists around the world in recent years.
The wine is generally fuller in body and texture; aromatic, with a peppery (sometimes spicy) element allied to peachy fruit and occasionally lime or lemon notes.
Marlborough accounts for 73% of the 46ha grown in New Zealand, Nelson some way back in second, with Waipara, Central Otago, Martinborough and Gisborne also accounting for small plantings.
While miniscule in comparison to the 21,400ha devoted to Sauvignon Blanc, the 46ha of Gruner Veltliner make it our ninth most planted white grape, with more than 20 examples being produced locally.
Plantings are forecast to remain stable for the next few years. Bannock Brae, Mount Edward, Quartz Reef and Burn Cottage fly the flag for the variety in Central Otago; the latter produces a Riesling Gruner Veltliner blend.
Price: $23
Rating: Excellent to outstanding
Powerful nose with cut herbs, pepper & spice, hints of lime and wet stones. Richness of fruit that fills the mouth, adding citrus, peach, stonefruit and a whisper of greengage plum with the peppery undercurrent ever present. Bright and refreshing acidity, delectably dry, leaving one salivating and wanting more.
Delicious, with marvellous complexity.
Price: $24
Rating: Very good to excellent
Musk, gum, smoke and peppery spice, adding sweat with aeration. Lower acidity and softer mouthfeel, adding lanolin to the spice and pepper backdrop. Broad and mouthfilling; nice vinosity here rather than just a fruit statement.
Time sees this grow in richness and intensity, layering spice and pepper on the long, appealing finish.
Price: $28-30
Rating: Very good to excellent
Sweet fruit evident at first: a complex nose with stonefruit, spices, herbs, dusty stones/talc and a background hint of elderflower/lime cordial. A subtle but appealing palate offering lovely refreshment and texture on a core of stonefruit, pear and pepper.
Nicely balanced with lots of interest; a rather charming wine that continues to grow with time.
