Petit Manseng is not a grape that regularly trips off the tongue of New Zealand wine lovers. However, a small band of pioneers already has great hopes for this unsung French white variety.
Hailing from southwest France and the little-known appellations of Jurancon and Pacherenc du Vic Bilh, which snuggle up against the Pyrenees mountains, the golden age for this grape was said to be the 15th and 16th centuries when it was reportedly a favourite of royalty.
Increasing in popularity through the 17th and 18th centuries, it then suffered (like all of France) the three-pronged attacks of phylloxera, oidium and mildew in the late 19th century, which decimated the area under vine.
Plantings recovered to a degree in the 20th century, reaching today barely a fifth of the amount in its heyday. Tiny amounts are also grown in the Languedoc, Spain's Basque region, central Italy, the east coast of the United States, Australia and New Zealand.
Petit manseng is prized for its ability to reach high natural sugar levels, which are often achieved late in the growing season through passilerage (shrivelling) on the vine, while maintaining its bright acidity.
Consequently, it has been most revered for its sweeter versions, though many fine dry wines, sometimes blends with gros manseng and petit courbu, can be found.
The aromas and flavours can be exotically spicy and floral, sometimes tinged with green herbs.
The first New Zealand plantings were made by Churton winemaker Sam Weaver in 2007 and 2008 (there simply was not enough vine-stock to plant it all in one year).
Sam had long been intrigued by the wines of Jurancon, was further enthused following a lecture by esteemed Bordeaux wine researcher Denis Dubourdieu and discovered that cuttings were available as he planted his vineyard.
Sam notes that the key to it is managing the acidity, but that the long Marlborough autumns suit it well. He has high hopes for it, and I tend to agree.
Below are New Zealand's first petit manseng producers.
Price (cellar door): $25
Rating: Very good to excellent
Exotic nose with added notes of spice, old roses and super-ripe peach. Viscous and textural with apple, bush honey and a refreshing herbal (think mint and lemon balm) edge. Walks a neat sweet/sour edge with a wonderfully refreshing, zingy and slightly wild finish.
Fascinating wine that grows with aeration.
Price: $49 (500ml)
Rating: Outstanding
Wild and exotic nose with quince, mint, ripe peach and stonefruit. Hugely appealing. Powerfully, texturally rich palate with baking spices, hints of warm baguette, honey and apricot allied to beautiful integration and balance. The flavours hang on the long finish with a gorgeous fresh counterpoint.
Leaves one salivating and wanting more.
Price (cellar door): $32 (375ml)
Rating: Excellent to outstanding
On a different tack here with wild herbs, Chinese tea, honey, spice, stonefruit and a whisper of balsamic. The wild and exotic flavours continue on the chalkily textured palate with cashew nuts, bush honey and a rancio hint. Development showing.
Real density on the close, as the flavours carry effortlessly. Lovely.
