The 2018 vintage Gimblett Gravels dozen is split into six blended reds and six syrahs.
When I pondered the varietal make-up of the blended reds, I noted that these were dominated by cabernet sauvignon, a later ripening grape than merlot, a tick of confidence to my mind from the winemakers, in getting flavour and physiologically ripe fruit at the end of the season.
Abundant tannins are also a factor in these wines, which will give structure and backbone as they age, but also complement food if you decide to broach these early.
2018 Elephant Hill
Hieronymous
Price: $120
Rating: Outstanding
A sense of volume to the
nose, dust, gravel,
riverstones, blackberry,
blackcurrant, perfume.
Powerful entry with tannins
to match, adding a grainy
feel to the texture. Mixed
red and dark fruits, a wisp
of leaf and savoury
nuances; the fruit hanging
on the long close, salivary
glands getting a work out.
Fleshes out nicely,
complexity and
completeness. Very
elegant!
2018 Squawking Magpie
Grand Gimblett
cabernet sauvignon
Price: $80
Rating: Excellent to
outstanding
Ripe, sweeter fruits, flirts with
liqueur fruits, bonfire
embers/wood smoke,
tobacco with time. A
sweeter fruit core here,
spices and chocolate, silky
texture and very fine
tannins. Freshness and a
cooling feel to this, the
youthfulness becomes
more apparent as the
tannins grow more mouth
puckering and the acidity
more bracing. Needs time.
2018 Saint Clair
Pioneer Block 17
Gimblett Gravels
cabernet merlot
Price: $37.90
Rating: Excellent
A tangy quality, balsamic,
savoury notes, then more
restrained blackcurrant,
berry compote and tar.
Medium bodied with
lovely purity of fruit
highlighting blackcurrant
and mixed berries. The
tanginess continues on
the palate, offering a
vibrant, crunchy
brightness. Elegant with
super-drinkability, yet
deceptive as there’s
structure for the future.
2018 Mission Estate
Jewelstone Antoine
Price: $50
Rating: Excellent to outstanding
A wisp of funk at first, humus,
earth, road tar, the fruit
hovering, a little cigar box with
time. Mouth-puckering,
powerful tannins driving this
yet underlying creamy
richness. Licorice, savoury
nuances, black tea, the
fruit carrying through to the
long, dry finish. Could
easily slip into a line-up of
Bordeaux. An attractive,
powerfully structured wine
needing time.
2018 Villa Maria
Ngakirikiri
Price: $150
Rating: Outstanding
Fascinating nose, tilled earth,
wild herbs, bran, black fruits,
leaf, wood smoke, perfume,
evolving and changing. Silky
entry, really fine tannins,
deceptive depth,
managing power without
overt weight. Chocolate,
spice box, tobacco, leaf,
savoury elements and
dark fruits caress the
palate, the tiniest saline
nuance. Approachable
yet huge potential.
Superb stuff!
2018 Trinity Hill
The Gimblett
Price: $40
Rating: Excellent to outstanding
Attractive nose of
blackcurrant, leaf, earth, milk
chocolate, spice and fruit
liqueur. Richly fruited front
palate, chocolate and
dusty gravel backed by
nicely judged tannins. A
tingly quality too adds
tangy brightness. There’s
lightness and finesse, the
richness is here without
being obviously big.
Approachable already with
its wonderful balance, but
I’m sure will mature with
grace.
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