I have been tasting quite a lot of Central Otago Pinot Noir recently, so it was nice with this flight of wines to point the proverbial bonnet northwards and explore North Canterbury and Marlborough once again.
The dominance of Central down in these parts tends to mean that store shelves can be Central orientated, but the majority of these wines have good, national distribution and may be a little easier to find.
The exception is the new Thirteen Forty Five label, crafted by the Indevin team specifically for Air New Zealand which you may get to try on your next international flight, or a local "happy hour" service.
2023 The Marlborist Marlborough Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
A dusty, gravelly
element. Oak scents,
old rose florality,
neatly supported by
the fruit. A sense of
coiled tension,
bittersweet fruit
characters, graphite/
lead pencil, very fine
tannins, mouthfilling.
With air there’s a real
velvety quality to the
texture, lovely
complexity and a
long fruit and savoury
filled close. Nicely
done, both now and
for the future.
2023 Rohe by Rapaura Springs Awatere Valley Pinot Noir
Rating Very good to excellent
Very fragrant nose,
oak scents, a cooler
fruit spectrum of
cranberry and
redcurrant aligned with
refreshing herbal
aspects. A lighter
touch to this on entry,
yet deceptive power
underlying it with good
length. Fresh, bright
and very youthful,
there’s drinkability in
spades, but I sense
that even a few more
months in bottle will
do it nothing but good.
2020 Pegasus Bay Prima Donna Pinot Noir
Rating Outstanding
Deeper, darker, brooding,
gunflint, mushroom,
charcuterie, savoury,
swelling perfume, great
fruit depth. Those
characters play out on
the palate. Interest and
intrigue here. Bold,
power and fruit to burn
yet real energy with a
long, juicy and engaging
finish, the powerful
tannins becoming more
grippy and chewy with
air. Clear cellar pedigree
on display, but won’t
disappoint if you open it
now.
2023 Rohe by Rapaura Springs Southern Valleys Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Perfumed and floral,
nutty touches, a little
savoury quality, red
fruits, rather engaging.
Red fruits again,
sweetly fruited, this has
that sense of
"pinosity" in that it is
fine, elegant and not
overstated yet has
surprising power and
intensity that creeps up
on you. Builds in the
glass. An umami
quality adds to the
piquancy. Tangy and
fresh on the close.
2023 Jules Taylor Marlborough Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
A sense of juiciness,
smoke, spices, an
earthy/humus aspect,
mixed red and dark
fruits, perfume.
Lovely nose. Almost
crunchiness to the
texture, bright and
vibrant, brimming
with fruit with great
tannic backbone as
well. Great length and
a fresh, juicily bright
finish. A lot of
ingredient in the
glass, so much to
enjoy now yet
potential too.
2023 Thirteen Forty Five Marlborough Pinot Noir
Price
RRP $24.99Rating Very good
A more fruit driven
nose to this, red
fruits, fragrance,
open and engaging, a
wisp of rhubarb later.
Not incredibly
complex but honest,
heart-on-its-sleeve
stuff that neatly fulfils
its role as a wine
meant to be opened
and enjoyed now.
Fresh, supple
mouthfeel, sweeter
fruits to the fore, a
wee lick of tannin
giving it good
structure. Ready.