Demand for wine has been falling globally as consumption per capita continues to drop, forcing growers in parts of Australia, France and California (among others) to very publicly address the demand-supply imbalance by pulling out vineyards that are simply no longer profitable, as the wine they produce can no longer find a home.
Domestically, wine faces increased competition for our discretionary coin from craft breweries and distilleries, general economic malaise and caution is seeing increased frugality, while a twin-pronged surge of non-drinkers - older people who through health concerns/wellness are now declining alcohol, along with a sizable cohort of younger people who have not (yet) engaged with any form of alcohol - diminish the pool of people who may appreciate and engage with wine.
How to engage that younger group and make wine ‘‘sexy’’ again is challenging the minds of industry thinkers.
Having written that, perhaps I am wearing my rose-tinted spectacles as I still fervently believe that wine has a future. The wines being made in New Zealand are better than ever, the passion and creativeness across the industry undiminished, while the feel-good factor of a great bottle of wine shared with friends/family never goes away.
The timing of Roam was obviously well thought out, coming hot on the heels of the 2025 Pinot Noir NZ event in Christchurch, attracting significant numbers of Australian and US enthusiasts, along with a slew of international media choosing to do the ‘‘double-header’’; everyone keen to immerse themselves in what Central Otago is doing.
The morning sessions saw two thought-provoking masterclasses with a fascinating selection of wines that certainly captured the attention of my table, leading to spirited discussion, while lunch showcased local produce (and gosh that tomato side dish melded simplicity with such flavour!).
The afternoon Grand Tasting saw a packed barrel hall at Amisfield winery, young and old, eagerly tasting the offerings of 30-odd local wineries, and from the discussions that I heard, plying the winemakers and winery principals with a raft of questions. I suspect that if you had posed the question: ‘‘Is wine in decline?’’ to that audience, you would have been laughed out of the room. Seeing that passion and enthusiasm gives me hope for the future.
Maybe we have to channel Bing Crosby when he sang ‘‘you’ve got to accentuate the positive, eliminate the negative, latch on to the affirmative, don’t mess with mister in-between’’!
2022 Carrick Organic
Bannockburn Pinot Noir
Price: RRP $51
Rating: Excellent to Outstanding
A sense of power and volume, red and dark fruits, spice (almost cracked pepper), nicely fragrant, wild herbs with air.
Quiet power to this, depth of fruit without being “fruity”, earth and savoury/licorice notes with a long, dry, slightly chewy close which speaks potential.
Fine tannic backbone, the flavours hang in the mouth, a lip-smacking quality draws you back for more.
2022 Gibbston Valley China Terrace Bendigo Single Vineyard Pinot Noir
Price: RRP $75
Rating: Excellent
Ripely fruited, red fruits, spices, a touch of wood smoke, sweet perfume growing.
Sweet, rich fruit and spices lead, becoming drier as it moves through the palate, picking up attractive earthy nuances with air.
Air sees rose petal perfume jump out too. Youthful, managing to combine depth with elegance. Long finish.
A lot to enjoy now, potential too.
2023 Maude Mt Maude Vineyard Reserve
Pinot Noir
Price: RRP $85
Rating: Excellent
Initially melds the fruit with some earthy notes, with air, pencil shavings and lead come into play, a wisp of toffee.
A fascinating, fine almost grainy feel to the tannins which along with the acidity give a tingly feel in the mouth.
There’s a little youthful brashness and firmness, underpinned by good fruit weight so this will all resolve nicely with time. My score likely conservative.
