I’ve had a soft spot for Hawke’s Bay syrah since stumbling upon the Stonecroft cellar door some 30 years ago and discovering the 1989 syrah: the inception wine of our modern syrah category in New Zealand.
Thirty vintages later, a combination of vine age, new clonal material and a wealth of experience garnered by the wine-makers is seeing some thrilling offerings.
The vintage of 2018 was warm, yet not totally trouble-free, but these labels have risen to the occasion with wines of depth, interest and potential.
2018 Smith & Sheth Cru Heretaunga syrah
Price: $40
Rating: Excellent to outstanding
Fragrant nose, dusty, riverstones, white pepper, earth/forest floor, red fruits.
A cool feel, fresh and vibrant, ripe yet not over-sweet, with deceptive tannins that build up.
Garners a silkiness as it opens; I could plump for northern Rhone here.
Complex, interesting, lovely balance, drinking superbly, yet potential too. Elegant.
2018 Smith & Sheth Cru Omahu syrah
Price: $60
Rating: Excellent to
outstanding
Subtle yet refined nose with
earthy touches and a herbal
influence, gathering florality
as it grows perceptibly. Fruit
richness (blackberry,
boysenberry, raspberry)
along with spices,
earthiness and powerful
tannins, crisp, fresh, the
fruit hanging in the
mouth.
For now, this is
wound up and tightly
structured and all about
the potential.
2018 Stonecroft
Gimblett Gravels Reserve
syrah
Rating: Excellent
Boldly fruited nose, a wisp of
brown paper evolves to fruit,
savoury notes and a musk/
dark flowers nuance. Density
to the dark fruits, adding
cedar, savoury notes,
spices and black pepper.
Chewiness as the tannins
build. With aeration, a
tight core of mineral/iron
develops as the wine
becomes tightly coiled.
Excellent carry and great
promise.
2018 Trinity Hill
Homage
Rating: outstanding
Boldly expressive perfume,
shifting to ink, blood, iron,
tar and savoury elements.
Richness yet refinement,
lovely balance, purity of fruit
and layers of flavour.
Powerful yet rounded, ripe
tannins with a long zesty
carry that is almost
cleansing.
Approachable, but gas
in the tank for the future.
Wonderful complexity
and poise. Compelling.
2018 Vidal Legacy Gimblett Gravels syrah
Price: $79.99
Rating: Excellent
Wild & funky nose, struck
match, earth, growing
perfume, fruit in support.
Juicy and crunchy, bright
acidity lending a zesty
tang to the close. This
grows with aeration, ripe
fruits mixing with toasty
and savoury nuances
before growing tannins
add a lightly chewy note
to the close. Its
approachability makes
this easy to overlook yet
there’s deceptive
interest here.
2018 Elephant Hill Stone syrah
Rating: Excellent to outstanding
Vibrantly fragrant nose,
herbs, jam/berry compote,
raspberry and spices
evolving. Powerfully fruited
palate adds gravel, tar,
charcuterie/savoury
nuances and a little hint of
salinity. This is a bit of a
bruiser for now, lots of
complexity but it is a big,
dense wine crying out for
some age. Time will be a
friend here.
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