Quality spirits in general are seeing a reawakening, but gin certainly is the most prominent, with a mind-boggling array of labels from across New Zealand and all corners of the globe.
Dunedin is also part of that spirit of creativity (forgive the pun), with four working distilleries in and around the city, and in keeping with the times, all are striving to include sustainable practices as part of their fabric.
It’s a marvellous time to be a gin drinker!
No 8 Distillery
A Kiwi/French collaboration between friends Michael and Julien led to the birth of No 8 Distillery, a nod to the ‘‘No 8 wire mentality’’ with a can-do attitude to get things done and the first distillery in Dunedin since the iconic Wilsons shut its doors.
Julien’s family have a long history distilling Calvados in France, and he brings these skills to their range of spirits: the core range supplemented by absinthe, ouzo and seasonal products, with rum also joining the portfolio.
Sustainability is a big part of what they do, typified by their new Moka Gin utilising by-product cocoa husks from Ocho Chocolate and cascara from Vanguard Coffee.
The 2023 USA Spirits Competition results have just been released and No 8 Distillery has taken out the gong for Absinthe of the Year - it was crafted by following nearly 100-year-old traditional practices from Julien’s French family roots. The gold awarded to their absinthe was matched by their Horopito Gin with the Moka Gin securing silver.
The distillery is located in Filleul St, but a shift to new premises in Bond St/No Name Alley should be completed before the year’s end. You’ll also find them at the farmers’ market.
PHOTO: SANDYMOUNT
Sandymount Distillery
Richard Wilson grew up on the Otago Peninsula and returned to Sandymount Rd to set up his distillery. It’s the first carbon neutral facility in the country, with the rooftop solar array powering the distillery.
Richard uses nearby spring water and botanicals foraged from the property, along with fruit from fruit trees on the farm in the production of his range, while he has also planted additional plants for future use. He hopes to express his land in his gins (terroir in a wine sense), with his Old Tom style Chapter Gin, for example, crafted to evoke memories of scents/flavours from the peninsula.
A gin judge and involved at the board level with the spirits industry, Richard has his finger on the pulse of the trade. Vodka, vermouth and bitters are also produced, while brandy and whisky may be in the future.
Sandymount is also in the news at the 2023 Juniper NZ Gin Awards, winning the best in class in the Old Tom category for its Chapter Three Old Tom Gin. That's back-to-back wins for Sandymount, having also won last year.
Dunedin Craft Distillery
Sue Stockwell and Jenny McDonald share an old-school passion for not letting things go to waste. They were aware that thousands of tons of surplus bread and bakery products go to landfill each year, and pondered if some of this could be repurposed into quality spirit.
Some three years later that dream is now Dunedin Craft Distillers, the first distillery in New Zealand utilising surplus bakery products to craft botanical spirits. That passion for reducing (waste), recycling and reusing strikes a strong chord with their customer base, and at last count they have saved more than 7500kg (and counting) of bread products from going to landfill.
As well as their core range, you’ll find mulled gin and cacao vodka. Handily located in Roberts St, they also have a stall at the farmers’ market.
Saddle Hill Brewery & Distillery
Tucked up on the seaward side of Saddle Hill you’ll find Saddle Hill Brewery and Distillery and function centre, where you’ll get to meet Ben Hanrahan. I sense the restless and inquisitive mind of a tinkerer (he built his own still after all), as Ben both refines his craft and explores further spirit and beer options to bring to market.
As well as a ‘‘classic’’ dry, there are gins flavoured with citrus, blackcurrant and watermelon, as well as a barrel-aged version. Whisk(e)y is also firmly in Ben’s mind and the requisite time will see this added to his portfolio. His journey to sustainability involves exploring options to utilise the by-products of the distillation process, with mash grains already finding a home as a feed supplement for his herd of cows.
Sandymount Negroni
Equal parts:
60ml Woodcutter Barrel Aged Gin
60ml Red Marker Sweet Vermouth
60ml 1880 Bitter Aperitif
Stirred together on a large ice cube, served with an orange peel garnish.
No 8 Espresso Martini
45ml No 8 Moka Gin
30ml No 8 Vodka
15ml Cocoa liqueur
45ml coffee shot
Shake very well for lot of foam!
No 8 Distillery Horopito Gin
Price, 700ml: $72
Neat: Distinct pepper notes lead, a herbal nuance reminiscent of parsley, juniper, charcoal briquette, a floral aspect lurking. Sipping sees the pepper complimented by sweet florality, juniper kicking in nicely, touches of orange peel, elegant.
With tonic: Lifted notes of pepper and lemon pepper on the nose while creating more subtlety on the palate with that hint of florality. Works very nicely as a G&T.
Dunedin Craft Distillers The Bay
Gin 45%
Price, 500ml: $72
Neat: Subtle but attractive, juniper comes through, bonfire embers, mineral salts, mandarin peel, pungency growing with aeration. Pepperiness leads the palate, juniper and citrus follow, deceptive power and very flavoursome.
With tonic: Really amplifies things, flavours true to impressions neat, adding wisps of dried pineapple, clarity to the juniper, lovely balance and depth, a burst of flavour.
www.dunedincraftdistillers.nz
Sandymount
Distillery Lovers
Leap Dry Gin 43%
Price, 700ml: $79
Neat: Pungent, powerful nose, juniper, pepper, coriander, orange citrus. Powerful in the mouth, orange top notes, lemon balm, juniper and pepper again, real depth of flavour to the spicy carry.
With tonic: Brings out the sweetness on both nose and palate, a touch of salinity a nice counterpoint, the pepper, juniper qualities to the fore. A really nicely composed G&T.
Saddle Hill Brewery
& Distillery NZ Dry Gin 42%
Price, 700ml: $69
Neat: Bold nose leaps out of the glass, richness, juniper, smoke, grapefruit citrus, powerful spirit in the mouth evolving to a spicy element, long finish. Pungent nose, classic juniper led nose, a sweet influence, caramelised grapefruit.
With tonic: Complements the gin superbly, broadening the depth of flavours. Super stuff, quite classic G&T.
