You are sitting in a moodily-lit restaurant perusing the wine list, wanting to impress your dinner date: wine waiter standing over you.
Lindauer Brut seems a tad stingy so you order the Lindauer Special Reserve, pointing at the line on the list.
The waiter returns with a bottle, it is displayed, the cork eased out and a sample is poured for you to taste.
You're thinking: they don't do this with the food so why the wine?
This may be part of the ''theatre'' of wine service and fine dining but there are serious principles that underlie it.
Firstly: it is an opportunity to confirm the waiter has indeed, brought the wine you ordered.
They could have mistaken your pointed finger for the Dom Perignon, 10 times what you intended spending. While you are at it, is it the vintage you requested?
You may also determine whether the wine has been served at a reasonable temperature: it may need an ice bucket, or need to be warmed.
Historically, the key reason for tasting the wine has been to check for faults; basically, to confirm the wine is in sound condition.
Winemaking, even 20 or 30 years ago, was more rudimentary than today.
Batches could fall prey to various microbiological maladies, while the curses of cork taint and random oxidation routinely scalped good bottles.
Thankfully, most of the worst issues are things of the past, although it never hurts to be wary as cork taint still lurks.
Finally I must dispel one myth: the opportunity to taste is not about whether you like the wine or not, it is purely and simply about whether the bottle you have purchased is a true and sound representation of its type.
Price: RRP $23.99 (may be under $20 on special)
Rating: Very good
Plums with pronounced raspberry and a hint of blackcurrant and leaf.
It feels like a whisper of cabernet in there?
Medium weight palate with that cassis and leaf again evident.
Finish quite tight at first with acid and light tannic grip evident.
This really blossomed with air and warmth offering lovely purity of fruit.
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Price: Around $25
Rating: Very good
Californian wines have been rare beasts but are making more of an appearance on our shores.
Dusty nose with toast and spice: do I get a hint of licorice?
Plum, cherry and cola on the palate with a hint of menthol.
Big and generous in the mouth: remaining supple and rounded.
A very user friendly style for merlot fans.
Price: RRP $32.99 (likely less than $30 on special)
Rating: Very good
Really appealing plum and fruitcake nose with some wild yeast funkiness.
What it offers on the nose it delivers on the palate, ending with a floral lift.
Not the most complex wine but ripe and generous without being overblown.
Lovers of merlot will absolutely lap this up!