Cookbooks to inspire and inform

Charmian Smith reviews a selection of recently published cookbooks.

Sauvignon blanc, New Zealand's best-known wine overseas, is the focus of Celebrate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc (Irvine Holt) by Belinda Jackson with recipes by Jan Bilton. Jackson introduces many of the region's sauvignons and Bilton's recipes make good use of local specialties such as mussels, scallops, crayfish, lamb, rabbit, goat's cheese, olives and vegetables.

 

A celebration of vegetables, Annie Bell's Gorgeous Greens (Kyle Books) already has a permanent place on my kitchen bench.

It's full of inspirational recipes in which vegetables of all types are the hero - dips, roasts, gratins, mains, salads of all persuasions, potatoes and grains.

It's not strictly vegetarian as meat and fish such as bacon, ham or anchovies, are used as flavourings, but there are plenty of recipes for those who eschew meat and other animal products. Many recipes are simple enough for everyday use but also stylish enough for entertaining or can be tarted up with a drizzle of olive oil or spice. Now I can't wait for the new-season beetroot to appear at the market to make grilled broccoli and beetroot with lentils, flavoured with rosemary, garlic and lemon, or a saffron risotto with spring veg topped with crisped ham or bacon, baby leeks and snow peas. When summer comes and peaches are at the market, I'll make a Greek salad of roasted green pepper and peaches flavoured with cumin, cayenne and lemon.

With the resurgence in vegetable gardens and fresh produce available in farmers markets and people looking for healthy, fresh food, this is a timely and welcome book.


 

Most of Jamie Oliver's books have explored other cuisines, or encouraged people to cook. In his latest book, Jamie's Great Britain: Over 130 reasons to love our food (Penguin) he at last explores the food of his own country - and one of the roots of our New Zealand cuisine.

A few recipes may raise eyebrows - Yemeni pancakes, roasted veg vindaloo, jerk-dressed Bristol pork inspired by Jamaican seasonings - which reflect the diversity of modern Britain. However most are traditional such as Welsh cakes, boiled bacon with pease pudding and mustard, Ecclefechan tart, piccalilli, Cornish pasties, Scotch eggs, kedgeree and Earl Grey tea loaf.

For those who think British food is boring, it's time to think again and recognise that not all the best recipes are from Italy or elsewhere. Like all Oliver's cookbooks, it's beautifully illustrated and stylishly produced.

Oliver fans won't want to miss this. It's one of his best.


 

Robyn Martin, former food editor of the New Zealand Women's Weekly and author of numerous cookbooks, has a new quick-mix baking book out, Quick and easy cupcakes, slices, biscuits and more (Chanel). Not only does her baking look inviting, her particular strength here is in developing quick recipes that don't need lots of beating or creaming of butter and sugar. Most are made by melting the butter and mixing with the other ingredients - useful for people who don't have a lot of kitchen equipment or for children. Take a copy to your crib so you can whip up treats without your usual kitchen appliances.

 

People following an animal-free diet may like Deborah Grey's 500 Vegan Dishes (New Holland), although many non-vegans will enjoy some of these recipes as well. They cover everything from breakfast to desserts.

She draws on many cuisines and provides several variations for each recipe. I liked the gado gado, an Indonesian salad with a spicy peanut dressing, a quick vegetable curry with coconut milk, and the vegetable biryani. There's an introduction which includes information about substitutes for eggs, milk and cheese, for those who wish to avoid all animal products.

 

 

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