Pinot blanc uncommon but well worth a try

It's pinot Jim, but not as we know it.

I’m confident that if you asked a casual wine drinker to name the red and white versions of "pinot" that the majority would have little trouble answering pinot noir and pinot gris. Pinot noir is by far our largest production red grape variety while pinot gris is just pipped into third place in the whites by chardonnay. Both line the shelves of every supermarket, liquor store and wine shop in the land, while also being cornerstones of most restaurant wine lists.

Pressed to name another "pinot" I’m also confident that most would struggle. Pinot meunier is a grape that many may have tried without realising it, being one of the core grapes in the Champagne blend after the more famous chardonnay and pinot noir. The 15ha of pinot meunier grown in New Zealand will be a component in our methode traditionelle wines.

The final "pinot" is pinot blanc of which there are just 10ha in production in New Zealand. Wracking my brain for producers, I managed to reach double figures, a Google search unearthed a handful more including blends, so this grape variety remains firmly in the uncommon camp.

Mention pinot blanc to a wine enthusiast and they would probably cite Alsace in France as its focal point where it is one of half a dozen white grapes to play a starring role, its more than 1000ha significant though still lagging behind gewurztraminer, pinot gris, riesling and auxerrois. The grape is probably at its apogee in Germany and Austria. With 4500ha and 2000ha respectively, it is the fifth-most planted white grape variety in both countries, while under its synonym pinot bianco there are also compelling examples produced in Northern Italy.

Typically quite full bodied, the wine often offers notes of pear, peach, tropical fruit and nuts, with citrus and spice often evident, on a core of stony minerality.

Central Otago is a bit of a hotbed for the variety and I’m delighted to showcase three of their offerings today, which are well worth seeking out.

2023 Carrick Organic Bannockburn Pinot Blanc

 
Price RRP $42
Rating Excellent
 
Powerful nose, grabs your nasal 
hairs and gives them a 
tweak. Tropical fruits, 
mango, smoke, sweet 
perfume evolving. That 
power once again evident 
in the mouth, great depth 
and again the tropical 
characters, spice notes 
later yet there’s a fine 
core of acidity and 
minerality that leavens 
the richness, bringing a 
cooling feel. Bursting 
with flavour, flows to a 
long, dry close.
 
 

2023 Mount Edward Central Otago Pinot Blanc 

 
Price RRP $33
Rating Excellent 
 
A nutty, slightly smoky 
element leads, peach, 
melon an attractive florality 
hinting at honeysuckle, a 
wisp of struck match later. 
Nice richness on the 
palate, the nuttiness 
evident, adding fruit 
cordial and herb, spice 
notes joining in on the 
long, nutty close. 
Develops lovely 
creaminess with air, the 
flavour depth 
blossoms, now with a 
fresh, bright close. 
Lovely balance.
 


2023 Gibbston Valley Red Shed Central Otago Pinot Blanc 

 
Price RRP $42
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
 
Sweetly fragrant, lanolin 
perhaps, stony 
minerality, aeration 
brings out peach and 
stonefruit. Again 
richness evident, a burst 
of flavour filling the 
mouth, almost a touch 
of fruit sherbet giving 
zesty crunchiness. 
Fruit pastille, lime and 
lovely spiciness as the 
palate becomes ever 
more creamy. Moves 
up a gear with air. Very 
engaging.