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Wednesday, 5 June 2024

Overcoming internal hurdles to embrace rieslings

    By Mark Henderson
    1. Life & Style
    2. Food & Wine
    3. Wine Reviews

    The day I tasted these wines I bumped into an old friend, Bruce, who happens to be an ardent fan of both riesling and Gewurztraminer.

    Bruce was bemoaning the fact that many wine lovers turn their noses up at these varieties.

    It’s a common refrain among those like him and I, which has been captured by these wines.

    It’s difficult to pinpoint the hurdle that holds people back from riesling; perhaps today’s wonderful wines might change a few minds?

    I’m certain Bruce would have been in heaven, had he tried these: I was definitely in my happy place! Note the stellar Pegasus Bay Museum release - it won’t be available for long.

     

    2023 Carrick Organic Bannockburn Riesling

     
    Price RRP $32
    Rating Excellent
     
    Florality leads, white 
    flowers/honeysuckle, 
    dustiness, lime flecks, 
    apple, mandarin later. 
    A hint of sweetness 
    leads before a shaft of 
    acidity romps in to give 
    a drier impression on 
    the close. Grapefruit, 
    lime cordial, apple 
    crumble, racy and 
    quite lip-smacking. 
    Aeration sees the 
    palate fatten, gaining 
    creaminess, a 
    honeyed note on the 
    close. Bright, crisp & 
    youthful.
     
     

    2023 Gibbston Valley Red Shed Central Otago Riesling

     
    Price RRP $42
    Rating Excellent
     
    Engaging nose, white 
    flowers, florality, 
    citrus, green apple a 
    touch of minerality, 
    dry honey and lanolin 
    later. Some 
    creaminess,  then 
    wonderful interplay 
    between racy acidity 
    and fruit sweetness, 
    yet closing dry. Again, 
    dry honey, apple and 
    citrus with a very long 
    close. Draws you 
    back for more, a 
    lovely each-way bet 
    between drinkability 
    and potential.
     
     

    2023 Hunter’s Marlborough Riesling

     
    Price RRP $20.90
    Rating Excellent
     
    Another lovely nose, 
    flirts with honeysuckle, 
    there’s red apple and 
    spice, lemon zest, very 
    classic. Dry on the 
    palate, nice textural 
    action going on, a wisp 
    of fruit pith adding 
    interest, initially an 
    almost sweet ‘n’ sour 
    quality adding 
    piquancy which 
    rounds out very nicely 
    as it takes on air, the 
    red apple flavours to 
    the fore. Already 
    drinking well, but likely 
    even better with time.
     
     

    2023 Dicey Bannockburn Riesling

     
    Price RRP $32
    Rating Excellent
     
    The nose implies 
    richness, musk, apple, 
    clover honey with an 
    undercurrent of stony 
    minerality. Honey is 
    joined by orange and 
    herb on the palate, a 
    smoky backdrop, a 
    rather fascinating 
    palate, a deeper, more 
    brooding aspect 
    snapped back into line 
    by the honeyed yet 
    zesty, just off-dry 
    close. A tingly quality 
    makes a foray. 
    Fascinating, some 
    intrigue here.
     
     

    2020 Gibbston Valley G.V Collection Central Otago Riesling

     
    Price RRP $30
    Rating Excellent to Outstanding
     
    Very aromatic, quince, 
    smoke, a camphor-like 
    note, apple and honey, 
    a suggestion of a wisp 
    of sweetness? Creamy 
    texture leads to a 
    deeper register, still a 
    youthful tautness, 
    delicacy rather than 
    exuberance, cerebral 
    rather than a crowd 
    pleaser, this somehow 
    feels effortless. The 
    nose and palate grow 
    with air, this is a stealth 
    bomber that quietly 
    ignites the senses.
     
     

    2014 Pegasus Bay Aged Release Waipara Riesling

     
    Price RRP $45
    Rating Outstanding
     
    The nose exudes 
    richness, flinty 
    minerality, beeswax, 
    mandarin/tangelo, apple, 
    a sumptuous and 
    complex nose that draws 
    you back again and 
    again. That richness is 
    there on the palate too, 
    matched by wonderful 
    tension, a chalky aspect 
    adding to the texture. 
    Writing about the 
    flavours is superfluous 
    — this is vital, vibrant, 
    complete. A wonderful 
    example of aged riesling 
    with yet more potential.
     

     

    Seasons - By Alison Lambert  - Available for purchase now!

    The Otago Daily Times and Alison have collaborated to bring you her first cookbook – Seasons.  

    This book is the ultimate year-round cookbook. Seasons is filled with versatile recipes designed to inspire creativity in the kitchen, offering plenty of ideas for delicious accompaniments and standout dishes that highlight the best of what each season has to offer.  

     

    $49.99 each. Purchase here.

    $44.99 for ODT subscribers. Get your discount code here.