The pinot noir glut, due to oversupply, high prices and the recession, may be difficult for producers, but it means consumers can sometimes find good, drinkable pinot at affordable prices, like the Mt Hector in this tasting.
At the other end of the scale, pinotphiles will want to explore the new vintage of single-vineyard wines from Escarpment.
BEST UNDER $20
$17
three stars (out of five)
good value VVV
Dark fruit, with hints of spicy oak, dark chocolate and toffee, a definite savoury undertone and a long, dry, nicely balanced finish. It will probably cellar well for a year or so tooIt's not yet t available retail in the South Island, but can be ordered online from wine@matahiwi.co.nz.
www.matahiwi.co.nz
BEST UNDER $20
Marlborough Pinot Noir 2009.
$19.95
two stars (out of five)
average value VV
A herby edge to this could be seen either as exciting or verging on unripe, but underneath there is juicy red fruit bolstered byspicy oak. Best when first opened. A dollar from each bottle goes to help the native New Zealand falcon.
www.montana.co.nz
$19
two stars (out of five)
average value V V
Another edgy wine with juicy red fruit hinting at raspberries and plums, a silky texture and a tingly, crisp dry finish.
www.wildsouthwines.co.nz
Hawkes Bay Pinot Noir
2009
$22
three stars (out of five)
average value V V
A bright, lively wine with a peppery edge, attractive berry fruit and tautly balanced finish. Easy to drink.
www.sileni.co.nz
Pinot Noir 2008
$37
three stars (out of five)
below average value V V V
When first opened the oak dominated this newly released wine but after a day or two the lively red fruit emerged. It's a dense wine with savoury undertones that will develop with a little more time in the bottle.
www.seresin.co.nz
Pinot Noir 2008
$50
four stars (out of five)
below average value V V V
The regional blend from Larry McKenna, one of the country's leading pinot makers. Savoury hints of mushrooms, lively red and black fruit, a silky texture, a peppery edge and nicely balanced oak, harmony and complexity, make this both delicious and intriguing.
ANOTHER GLASS
Escarpment Kiwa Pinot Noir 2008
$65
four stars (out of five)
below average value V
The rich dark fruit, spicy oak and savoury background notes of this concentrated, firmly structured wine speak of classic Martinborough pinot.
Escarpment Pahi Pinot Noir 2008
$65
four stars (out of five)
below average value V
Fragrant, softer fruit supported by spicy oak give generosity to this wine. It's charming, harmonious and satisfying with supple, fine-grained tannins on the finish.
Escarpment Te Rehua Pinot Noir 2008
$65
four stars (out of five)
below average value V
There's a hint of freshly baked biscuits, dark red fruits, a savoury undertone, spicy, chocolately oak and a texture that reminds me of dupion silk - silky yet crisp. This is from 23 year old vines.
Escarpment Kupe Pinot Noir 2008
$85
four and a half stars (out of five)
below average value V
From Escarpment's own, close planted vineyard on a gravel terrace above the Huangarua River, this is from young vines, first harvested five years earlier. It has a fresh, juicy charm but it's the elegance, structure, density and understated power that make this wine stand out. McKenna suggests it will develop over 10 years. Pinotphiles will find it fascinating following this wine vintage by vintage as the vines get older.
Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations.
charmian.smith@odt.co.nz
Two stars - simple, clean, enjoyable wine; three stars - good wine with varietal characteristics; four stars - very good wine with some outstanding characteristics; five stars - outstanding wine with balance and harmony that leaves you with a sense of wonder.
