Merlot and cabernet merlot blends can vary from punchy tannic wines with every last drip of fruit and oak extracted that call attention to themselves, to gentler, more balanced wines that invite another sip and obligingly fit in with what you are eating.
This batch of mostly New Zealand wines showed some good wines in the mid-$20 price range, some of which may be found on special.
◊ BEST UNDER $20
Rating: Three stars (out of five)
Value: Good
An approachable wine with hints of plums and a nice, juicy, grainy finish.
An obliging wine, mellowed and drinking nicely now.
Sacred Hill Basket Press Hawkes Bay Merlot Cabernet 2008
$21
Rating: Two stars (out of five)
Value: Average
A light aroma hinting of stewed plums, but spicy oak and berry fruit on the palate with a firm, edgy finish.
Church Road Hawkes Bay Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2007
$26
Rating: Three stars (out of five)
Value: Average
An attractive, showy wine rich with oodles of spicy oak, mint and lush berry fruit, nicely balanced with a long firm finish.
Look for discounts on this.
Matariki Hawkes Bay Cabernet Merlot 2007
$27
Rating: Four stars (out of five)
Value: Good
A perfumed young wine with layers of ripe berry fruit, spicy oak, a suggestion of toffee and just a hint of dried herbs.
It's a big wine from Gimblett Gravels but promises good balance and integration with a few more months' bottle age.
Thornbury Hawkes Bay Merlot 2007
$20
Rating: Two stars (out of five)
Value: Average
A big punchy wine oozing blackcurrants, elderberries and oak, with every last drop of flavour extracted and big, grippy tannins.
One for those who like being knocked over by their wine.
Sileni The Triangle Hawkes Bay Merlot 2007
$35
Rating: Four stars (out of five)
Value: Average
A beautifully integrated wine with the warmth of spice, dark berries, a suggestion of rich fruit cake, and a hint of toffee and smoke - dense and concentrated but nicely balanced.
It's not a showy wine, but it's charming and satisfying - something to linger over and go back to.
ANOTHER GLASS
Montana Reserve Hawkes Bay Merlot 2006
$24 but look for it on special
Three stars (out of five)
Average value
A bright, spicy wine with hints of dark fruits and firm tannins with a slightly edgy finish.
Huntaway Reserve Gisborne Merlot Cabernet 2007
$23 but look for discounts
Three stars (out of five)
Average value
Hints of chocolate, barbequed meat and dark berries, mingle with spicy oak and finish with mouthfilling, slightly grippy tannins.
Brown Brothers Patrica Victoria Cabernet Sauvignon 2004
$55
Four stars (out of five)
Average value
A stylish wine from across the Tasman, Patricia is the top of the Brown Brothers range.
It's older than the New Zealand wines in this tasting and perfumed with hints of eucalyptus flowers, nutmeg and malt, with a smooth, silky texture and firm, slightly chewy tannins.
It's drinking well now, but should continue to mature for a few years yet.
Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations. charmian.smith@odt.co.nz
