How can New Zealand sauvignon blanc, which is supposed to leap out of the glass, have little or no aroma, I had to ask myself as I tasted 16 recent examples of the "savalanche" - the flood of sauvignon now being produced, much of it for export.
The answer, unfortunately, is that some producers are overcropping and producing dilute wines - crisp and fresh maybe, but without the fragrant intensity and inviting passionfruit, melon and gooseberries we expect from this variety.
Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations. charmian.smith@odt.co.nz
Corbans Homestead Hawkes Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (about $15)
Crisp and bright with hints of gooseberries and passionfruit and a suggestion of mineral.
Often found discounted.
Rating: 3 stars out of 5
Value: Good
Dashwood Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (about $18)
Fragrant and floral with intense ripe fruit suggesting passionfruit, gooseberries and mineral, with a crisp, assertive finish.
A typical Marlborough sauvignon and always good value.
Rating: 4 stars out of 5
Value: Good
Another typical Marlborough sauvignon, with ripe fruit hinting of melon, mineral and a suggestion of asparagus, with a bright, intense, lively finish.
A cheerful, reliable Marlborough sauvignon.
Rating: 4 stars out of 5
Value: Average
Fragrant and slightly funky with suggestions of tropical fruit and melon and an assertive, lingering finish.
Rating: 4 stars out of 5
Value: Average
I loved the fine balance of this wine, the hints of mineral blending with overtones of passionfruit and tropical fruit, the stylish intensity and lingering aftertaste.
One of Montana's best.
Rating: 5 out of 5
Value: Average
A funky, complex wine, barrel-fermented with wild yeast, this has mouth-filling hints of smoky oak, mineral, ripe green fruits and a long, complex finish.
Rating: 4 stars out of 4
Value: Poor
