REVIEW: Hawkes Bay Gimblett Gravels reds impress

It was my pleasure to watch these young Hawkes Bay reds from the Gimblett Gravels area develop as I tasted them over several days.

When first opened, they were tight and needed a nibble of hard cheese or bread and oil between tastes, but I couldn't help being impressed that these were serious, concentrated wines with intense fruit, finely structured and firmly tannined.

On successive days they mellowed a little, becoming more integrated and harmonious, indicating they will benefit from cellaring.

Several of the more expensive wines in this group came in heavy, broad-shouldered bottles which make a statement on the table, and the wines are impressive, too, with saturated fruit and muscular tannins.

However, I found myself going back to the (relatively) less expensive wines.

The showy wines were just too tough at present.

Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations. charmian.smith@odt.co.nz

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Craggy Range Te Kahu Gimblett Gravels 2006 (about $30) is a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and a little malbec.

Oozes attractively rich berry fruit and spicy oak, and finishes with firm tannins.

I enjoyed its structure and complexity.

It will develop with bottle age, probably for five years or more.

4 stars (out of 5)

Average value

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CJ Pask Declaration Gimblett Gravels Merlot 2005 (about $48) is elegant and concentrated with a silky texture, characteristic suggestions of spice, cigarbox, rich berry fruit supported by toasty oak.

It is generous with fine-grained tannins and a lingering aftertaste, and should develop with age.

4 1/2 stars (out of 5)

Average value

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Villa Maria Omahu Gravels Vineyard Gimblett Gravels Merlot 2006 (about $58) is a perfumed, silky wine, with a hint of blackcurrant, chocolate and smoky oak.

It finishes with a firm grip and lingering aftertaste.

A young wine with a definite future - well worth cellaring.

4 stars (out of 5)

Poor value

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Sacred Hill Broken Stone Gimblett Gravels Merlot 2005 (about $64) and its brother, Helmsman Cabernet Merlot 2005, are blockbusters, oozing concentrated dark fruit, spicy, smoky oak, hints of chocolate and finishing with big, grippy tannins.

The merlot is a tad more attractive with softer, fruit, and savoury tannins.

4 stars (out of 5)

Poor value

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Deen De Bortoli Vat 9 Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (about $22) is an Australian wine with rich dark plum and fruitcake characters, a suggestion of dried figs and raisins soaked in port with a firm, dry finish.

3 stars (out of 5)

Average value

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The Willows Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (about $32) has all the generosity you expect from the Barossa - rich, soft fruit reminiscent of blackcurrants and blackberries, a hint of chocolate, mint and five spice with a firm, lingering aftertaste.

4 stars (out of 5)

Good value