REVIEW: Crisp, fruity sauvignon blanc's well beyond vinegar

By Charmian Smith

One of the characteristics of New Zealand wine, especially of its whites, is the crisp acidity that leaves a tingling freshness in the mouth.

Acidity is a characteristic of wines grown in cool climates and at best it gives a fresh, lively crispness and structure to a wine.

Wines that lack acidity, such as some cheaper Australian chardonnays, can feel flabby and boring.

Fresh acidity is especially characteristic of New Zealand sauvignon blanc, but the acidity must be balanced by fruit or the wine will be lean and mean and a bit like vinegar.

It should be fruit and other flavours that linger afterwards, not the acidity.

Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations. charmian.smith@odt.co.nz

Neudorf Nelson Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (about $22) is deliciously fragrant with suggestions of melon and tropical fruit like papaya, some lovely textural undertones, a crisp, bright acidity and lingering aftertaste.

It is an enticing wine, hugely attractive and full of charm.

4 stars (out of 5)

Good value

Missionaries of Charity Sister Lily and Emeritus Prof Martin Ferguson pose for the camera during a break from work at the charity's hospice where Prof Ferguson undertook oral health checks on orphans, work which led to the development of an ongoing...

Mission Hawkes Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (about $17) was released in May while most other 2008 wines were still in the vats or even on the vine.

It has pungent aromas, hints of green fruit, herbs and mineral with a very crisp, dry finish.

What it lacks in charm it makes up for in power and youth.

3 stars (out of 5)

Average value

Matahiwi Wairarapa Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (about $18) is pungent with hints of green smokiness and flavours that suggest mineral and honeydew melon, with a slight creaminess and a crisp, dry finish.

3 1/2 stars (out of 5)

Good value

Nautilus Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (about $25) is one of the more complex Marlborough sauvignons - fragrant with an attractive suggestion of mineral and green fruits (gooseberry, kiwi, fresh guava).

It is bright and crisp but harmonious and the delicious flavours linger.

4 stars (out of 5)

Average value

Blind River Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (about $27) is pungent and intense with hints of kiwifruit.

This stylish wine has a little barrel fermentation which gives texture and complexity.

It is a tight young wine, verging on the aggressive: for those who enjoy full-on Marlborough.

4 stars (out of 5)

Average value

Judge Jeff Smith consults documents beside commissioner Diane Menzies and commissioner Charles Manning at the Environment Court hearing at the Dunedin Centre. Photo by Gerard O'Brien.

Mahi Francis Vineyard Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2007 (about $25) This oaky, intense wine from Francis vineyard has overtones of fresh guava and full-on oak.

It will not be to everyone's taste, but it is a good food wine.

Winemaker Brian Bicknell is producing sauvignons worth exploring.

4 stars (out of 5)

Average value

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