REVIEW: Anything but chardonnay

Viognier makes rich, mouth-filling wines that can provide a welcome alternative to chardonnay, especially as many have a hint of nuttiness from barrel fermentation and lees ageing as chardonnay often does.

Originally from the Rhone Valley, where it almost died out in the 1960s, viognier has become a fashionable variety, although still relatively uncommon.

Although it is not in the cheap and cheerful bracket yet, there are some affordable, good-value New Zealand viogniers.

Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine-tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations. charmian.smith@odt.co.nz


Mills Reef Hawkes Bay Viognier 2007 (about $17)

Hints of stonefruit, citrus and toasty hazelnuts, a rich, oily texture and a crisp finish.

4 stars (out of 5)

Good value

Match with chicken with nuts or apricots.


Vidal East Coast Viognier 2007 (about $19)

Another affordable, mouth-filling wine with hints of toasted nuts, an oily texture and creamy finish.

3 stars (out of 5)

Average value

Match with chicken or pork


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wine3_dashwood.jpg
Waimea Nelson Viognier 2007 (about $22)

A fruit-salady wine, oozing tropical fruit, melon, passionfruit pulp and pineapple with a creamy texture and firm finish.

3 stars (out of 5)

Average value

Try with chicken or fish with passionfruit jus.


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Wine4_richmond.jpeg
Alpha Domus Hawkes Bay Viognier 2007 (about $27)

There's lots of toasty oak and buttered nuts here, but the fruit, with hints of honeysuckle and mineral, shines through this bright, mouth-filling wine.

4 stars (out of 5)

Average value


Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Hawkes Bay Viognier 2007 (about $38)

A classy wine oozing complex flavours of smoky oak, toasted nuts and rich fruit.

It's full in the mouth, rich, stylish and powerful. Worth savouring as it develops in the glass.

5 stars (out of 5)

Average value


Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Noble (375ml) Viognier 2007 (about $29)

A truly rich, unctuous, mouthfilling wine, intensely sweet, reeking of dried apricots and manuka honey and finishing with a clean, lingering aftertaste.

One of the most deliciously decadent botrytised wines.

4 stars (out of 5)

Savour by itself or with pear and walnut tatin.

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