Pinot noirs from South expected to mellow well

Pinot noir is becoming a fashion item as much as a wine to enjoy.

I had to smile in recognition when I read recently a couple of reports, one from New Zealand and another from overseas, that wine drinkers (as opposed to wine professionals) enjoyed cheaper wines more than expensive ones when they weren't told the price.

Some indication of a wine's reputation and price can do wonders for the tastebuds - which, of course, is why some professionals prefer to taste wine blind.

These 2006 wines will all benefit from a few months' or even years' bottle age to enable them to mellow and lose some of their youthful gawkiness.

Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations. charmian.smith@odt.co.nz

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Rippon Jeunesse Central Otago Young Vines Pinot Noir 2006 (about $36), like the fine Rippon Pinot Noir 2006 (**** $49 V+) from older vines, needs time to show its potential.

The Jeunesse is attractive with charming ripe fruit, toasty oak, silky tannins and a long, stylish aftertaste.

4 stars (out of 5)

 

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Thornbury Central Otago Pinot Noir 2006 (about $30) is from Bannockburn according to the back label, and hints of pepper and cherryplums with a savoury undertone, lots of spicy oak and an edgy aftertaste.

This wine from the Villa Maria stable is pleasant, if still a tad gawky, with typical Central Otago characteristics.

3 stars (out of 5) 

 

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Coal Pit Tiwha Pinot Noir 2006 (about $36) has the typical brightness and delicacy of pinot from Gibbston vineyards, with a tingly edge of cherryplums, spice and pepper but also some charming layers of flavour and an exciting crisp acidity.

3 1/2 stars (out of 5) 

 

 

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Mount Dottrel Central Otago Pinot Noir 2006 (about $35) is from a Parkburn vineyard on the shores of Lake Dunstan.

It's mouth-filling but a tad gawky still, with spicy oak and dark cherries with a hint of chocolate, but lifted acidity and firm, dusty tannins give it a pleasant finish.

Likely to develop with bottle age.

3 stars (out of 5) 

 

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Sacred Hill Prospector Central Otago Pinot Noir 2006 (about $65) This new label from Mark Mason's vineyards on the Pisa Range is fragrant with ripe fruit with a savoury hint in the background, supported by firm, fine-grained tannins.

I enjoyed the charm and texture and lingering aftertaste.

4 stars (out of 5) 

 

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Amisfield Rocky Knoll Pinot Noir 2006 (about $110) From a block with distinctive rocky soils.

This is a powerful wine, full in the mouth, attractive and intriguing.

It has a firm structure, intensity and long aftertaste, and an impeccable balance.

Cellaring will allow it to develop its full potential.

4 1/2 stars (out of 5)