While Lake Hayes restaurant Amisfield retained its position as the best in New Zealand, winning Restaurant of the Year at the Cuisine Good Food Awards, 10 other top Otago restaurants were also recognised.
Awards lead assessor Kerry Tyack says the assessors are unanimous that this year, unlike the previous two or three, there is a more upbeat atmosphere, more excitement and more of that Kiwi can-do attitude permeating through the restaurants they visited around the country.
"We have not been fooled into thinking that all is perfect, that staffing issues have been solved, that produce prices are more reasonable and that margins are where they should be. But there is definitely change for the better in the wind, which is a good thing, and it’s something worthy of acknowledgement and celebration."
Restaurants are awarded one hat for a score of 17/20 described as "excellent up there with the best", two hats for 18/20 "consistently outstanding" and three hats for 20/20 "best of the best".
In Otago, all restaurants retained their "hats" from the previous years, with Dunedin’s No7 Balmac, Oamaru’s Riverstone and Queenstown’s Rata all regaining one hat this year.
Amisfield retained its "three hats" and its head chef, Vaughan Mabee, described as Aotearoa’s "most visionary chef", won the Innovation Award for the second year in a row for his "innovate, edible theatre".
Assessors described the restaurant as "life imitates art, the Amisfield experience brilliantly demonstrates how magical, entertaining and memorable food can be".
Queenstown’s Sherwood restaurant was the only other Otago restaurant to gain more than one hat. It received two hats, executive chef Chris Scott attributed with "culinary genius blended with his blood".
"Chris takes commonplace ingredients, including plenty of homegrown and foraged stuff, and turns them into something sublime and memorable," the assessors say.
In Dunedin, Moiety retained its hat, chef and co-owner Sam Gasson and partner Kim Underwood delivering an "ethos of awesome food and epic service".
"A right royal unpretentious treat in the Queens Gardens."
"There’s an element of delightful surprise as each course unfolds. With Melanie maintaining a consummate front-of-house operation, we receive the finest in both food and attention."
No 7 Balmac regained its hat for getting it "just right". Its scones also got a mention as "heroic". "So right, in fact, that you go for brunch and want to stay for dinner. The hike up the hill for a feast after five will see you richly rewarded."
The Ben Bayly-owned Aosta retained its one hat, with head chef Steven Sepsy, cooking techniques from northern Italy and ingredients from local growers, breeders and suppliers, credited with its success.
"Lately he’s been experimenting with truly remarkable mushrooms, namely Remarkable Fungi, grown in Central Otago and used with liberal enthusiasm in his tagliolini: confit Swiss browns, roasted oyster mushrooms and porcini powder- it’s all there for your delectation."
Botswana Butchery in Queenstown is credited as "overflowing with comfort food" with as much "flair" as head chef Warwick Taylor and his team can weave into it.
"No-one leaves hungry."
Cucina, in Oamaru, is described as being at the top of the list of attractions in Oamaru, with owners Argentinians Pablo Tacchini and his wife, Yanina, credited for bringing a "love of their homeland to all the food that they so cleverly do".
In Wānaka, the assessors say Kika’s chef/owner James Stapley just keeps getting better and this year gave it an extra point in recognition of " the experimentation and innovation James brings to his dishes" on his ever-changing seasonal menu with Italian and Asian flavours.
Rata, in Queenstown, regained its hat due to the "deeds" of the Australia-trained head chef Michael Bickford’s commitment to local ingredients, so much so he eschews coconuts.
"A local food story made extremely good."
Riverstone also regained its hat, being described as "bucolic bliss on a bed of river stone".
"Within this great, welcoming countryside enclave is a harmony and generosity that is reflected in the tastes that Bevan coaxes out of every carefully chosen ingredient."
Bayly, who is also involved with Little Aosta and Blue Door Bar in Arrowtown and The Bathhouse in Queenstown as well as three Auckland restaurants, won a Champion for Change award for his dedication to upcycling food into a range of products, his rescue of The Secret Garden and his work with people living with dementia.
