![Craggy Range Estate. PHOTO: HAWKE’S BAY TOURISM](https://www.odt.co.nz/sites/default/files/styles/odt_landscape_extra_large_4_3/public/story/2022/01/craggyrange.jpg?itok=bj2qday9)
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As the Gimblett Gravels grower body itself states, "it gives writers perspective as to where GG wines stand in a given year", while also "charting the progression of the wines from our unique terroir".
Member wineries are invited to submit wines: these are blind tasted by an independent critic, who since the initiative’s inception with the 2008 vintage has been Australian Master of Wine Andrew Caillard.
The recommended retail prices of the wines has spanned $20-$150, and there is occasionally an absolute bolter in the mix as there is this year.
The 2019 vintage is the start of an exceptional trio of vintages in "the bay" and this is certainly reflected in the wines.
The depth of fruit means that most of this group can already be broached with enthusiasm, yet those with the foresight to tuck some away will be richly rewarded.
Price RRP $39.99
Rating Excellent to outstanding
Subtle, youthful nose with notes of chocolate, caramel, toast, spices, fruit in support, a funky nuance later. Nice tension with bright acidity, the backbone quietly evident, an ethereal quality, managing power and depth without overt weight. Freshness, savoury touches growing as the fruit swells. Delightfully long finish. Drinkability yet potential too.
Price RRP $150
Rating outstanding
A sense of power to this, brooding, savoury, darker fruits, spices, marmite/umami and growing florality. Powerful intense fruit, paired with charcuterie, minerality and perhaps a hint of olive, all with great structure underpinning it. Clearly built for the long haul, yet for all its power there’s freshness and vibrancy too. Chewy, salivatory, delicious.
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Price RRP $19.99
Rating Excellent
Crushed leaf, tea leaf, river stones, licorice, the fruit neatly in support. Juicy and crunchy, sweetly fruited with red fruits, mixed berries and spices, neatly balanced by some fine, ripe tannins. Nice energy and vibrancy here, already in a lovely place to enjoy now, yet the structure suggests this will kick on too, Post reveal, great bang for your buck and a lot to enjoy.
Price RRP $125
Rating Excellent to outstanding
Dark and deep, powerful oak scents and toasted coconut meld with earth, licorice, umami, dark fruits. The nose draws you in. A suppleness to the palate contrasts with real crispness to the acidity, lending a sweet ‘n’ sour nuance, backed by milk chocolate, toast, pencil shavings and fruit. The elements are here, yet this feels young, with a lot more to offer.
Price RRP $49.99
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Ripe, liqueur fruits, herbs, lead pencil/cedar, dusty gravel. Nicely judged fruit ripeness allows an attractive dryness, never oversweet, with powerfully expressed tannins showing intent for the future. As this builds in the glass savoury qualities and a funky nuance appear, while the tannins really grow. Intrigue and interest, time will be a friend.
Price RRP $69.99
Rating Excellent to outstanding
Dark fruits, blackcurrant, an intriguing saline edge, attractive fragrance. Density & richness mixing red and darker fruits with plum and tea leaf/black tea, cedary oak showing with aeration. You could overlook this one as it’s not a show-off, creeping up on you showing elegance and integration. Evolves beautifully in the glass as it takes on air. Potential too.
Price RRP $49.99
Rating Excellent to outstanding
Spice and pepper, ripe fruits, cigar box, a wisp of balsamic — an attractive subtlety here. In a line-up of powerful wines, this retains a sense of delicacy. Not at all underpowered, but finesse and elegance with balance and integration. Deceptive flavour intensity, a touch of leafy freshness adding to the fruit as the tannins also grow. Complexity, a wine to ponder.
Price RRP $39.99
Rating Outstanding
Immediately fragrant nose, blackcurrant leaf, mint, plum, blackcurrant, blackberry, dust. The core of fruit is paired with pencil shavings, pencil lead and
"Bordeaux leaf" on a delightfully textural palate. While there is tannic structure to match the powerful fruit, it never strays into heaviness, a sense of brightness too. Drinkability yet great potential.
Price RRP $39.95
Rating Outstanding
Dark and brooding, earthy, meaty, savoury on a framework of darker fruits, blood later. Powerful entry, flooding the palate with ripe, yet attractively dry fruits with savoury notes and stony minerality. Lovely depth of fruit and flavour that already offers drinkability, but the structure is also there for the longer haul. Blind, I could pick this as European. Value here.
Price RRP $49.99
Rating Excellent
Beguiling nose of white pepper, spices, red currant, red fruits, dust and leather. The palate adds, chocolate plum, and a stony/gravel nuance with freshening acidity. Fleshy, rounded, integrated, showing hints of development and already very approachable. Initially seems quite forward, but as the fruit swells, this comes across as rather more serious.