I haven't seen as many weedy unripe reds around in the past few years.
Instead, cheaper wines, especially from Australia tend to be harsh and a bit rough, or overly sweet.
However, there are some lovely merlot, cabernets and blends around. Serve them at cool room temperature (12-17degC) rather than too warm.
They are generally fresher, better balanced and more versatile that way.
◊ Best under $20

(about $19)
From across the Tasman, this is perfumed, with dense, ripe fruit, a firm finish and attractive aftertaste.
Nicely balanced and good with many sorts of food.
Four stars (out of five)
Good value

(about$17)
A simple red with a hint of blackcurrants and rich fruitcake.
It's easy, and not too grippy.
It has no vintage on the label and is not for cellaring.
Two stars (out of five)
Average value

(about $21)
Wild Rock is made by Craggy Range, and this shows the texture and balance that mark out its grander stablemates.
A hint of blackcurrant and mineral with undertones of dark, spicy berries and chocolate, combine to give a nicely-balanced savoury aftertaste.
Unpretentious and good drinking.
Three stars (out of five)
Average value

(about $21)
A powerful Australian, with oodles of soft dark berry fruit, a hint of chocolate and a firm, grippy finish.
The velvety berry, spice and eucalyptus-filled Taylors Jaraman Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 (about $28 ****) is also worth seeking out.
Three stars (out of five)
Average value

(about $35)
Boysenberries and blackberries, with a hint of spicy oak and dark chocolatey depths spiked by a hint of blackcurrant and a firm tingly finish, contribute to the harmony of this smart wine.
Four stars (out of five)
Poorvalue

(about $29)
Perfumed, floral with hints of coffee and dark chocolate and spicy oak, ripe dark berry fruit and an exciting herbaceousness, this is a harmonious wine with a firm crisp finish.
It took a while to open up in the glass, and even though it's four years old, will probably develop with further bottle age.
Four stars (out of five)
Good value
Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations.
charmian.smith@odt.co.nz