Samoa: top 10

1. Vailima, on the outskirts of Samoa’s capital, Apia, was the home of writer Robert Louis Stevenson (1850-1894), of Treasure Island fame. Known as Tusitala ("teller of tales"), the writer lived here for the last five years of his life. As well as touring the house, now a museum, visitors can walk up to the top of Mt Vaea, where Stevenson is buried. (Tip: walk early in the morning before it’s too hot.)

2. On the "big island", Savaii, the Alofaga blowholes fling salt water 100m or more through fissures in the black volcanic rock that forms the coastline. Locals sometimes toss coconuts into the holes for the fun of watching them hurled up into the air.

3. Plunging into a natural swimming pool, the Afu Aau waterfalls on Savaii are a picturesque spot for a dip. Take a picnic as well as your togs. Usually quiet on weekdays.

4. Catch a bus for as little as one tala (about 60c) and travel the islands the way the locals do. There are no bus stops: just wave at a bus as it comes your way and the driver pulls into the roadside. The fare is calculated when you get off the vividly coloured vehicle.

5. Cocoa beans have been grown in Samoa since the 1880s and Whittakers source some of their beans from Savaii. The local version, known as koko, is sold in blocks and koko rice (rice in coconut milk flavoured with cocoa) is a popular and moreish breakfast food. Coffee ("kofe"), too, is grown in Samoa; either makes a great souvenir.

6. Raw fish is popular throughout the Pacific. Known as poke in Samoan, it varies depending on what flavourings are used, but the fish is always marinated in lime or lemon juice. Pictured is mahi mahi flavoured with chilli, soy sauce and sesame. Yummy!

7. On the sheltered south coast of Samoa's main island, Upolu, Lalomanu beach has a stretch of creamy-white sand, warm water protected by a reef and views of uninhabited Nu-utele Island. Perfect for a family day out or if you want to stay longer, the Taufua Beach fales are just across the road from the beach.

8. Saleaula lava field is one of Samoa's most-visited attractions. After Savaii’s Mt Matavanu erupted in 1905, molten lava kept flowing for another six years. Five villages were buried and some villagers used coconuts for flotation as they swam to Upolu to escape. Igneous rock inside the ruins of the LMS church (pictured) mark the lava’s path. Look for the imprints left when the corrugated iron roof collapsed.

9. To-Sua ocean trench pool, accessed by a long ladder, is a fascinating place to visit. The cave that leads to the ocean is suitable only for skilled divers and if you don't want to swim in the 30m deep trench, there's a nearby swimming pool on the beach that's filled by the sea at high tide. The park beside the trench is a pleasant spot for picnicking.

10. In Samoa, Sunday is for attending church, so beaches are closed, which is why this sandy stretch just around the coast from Apia was deserted on a Sunday afternoon. Visitors should respect local customs like these, even if it’s a tad inconvenient.