In the off-premise (wine retail) market $20 to say $35 is the bread and butter price point for regular enjoyment. $45 to $60 sees a great deal of the ‘‘estate’’ labels offering added depth and complexity. Above that price we are into more rarefied air: wineries with high reputations and track records along with very limited releases like our first two today. To each their own.
2021 Carrick The Magnetic Bannockburn Pinot Noir
Rating Outstanding
Powerful fragrance,
woodsmoke, gunflint,
dustiness, parting as
the fruit blossoms,
while a humus/forest
floor note joins the
party. Silky entry,
mouthfilling, ripe yet
not overtly sweet
fruit, a delightfully
fresh, dry palate with
a touch of juicy
piquancy. Balance,
integration, great
depth of flavour yet
light on its feet, feels
unforced. Youthful,
super potential.
2019 Domaine Thomson Rows 1-37 Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Earth & old roses, hints
of spice, a little more
reticent before it begins
to reveal its secrets.
Cool, fresh red fruits,
ripe cranberry,
juiciness & vibrancy in
the mouth with
powerful black tea like
tannins framing the
long, dry finish.
Aeration accentuates
that lovely juiciness
and freshness as the
wine begins to unfurl.
Long, long finish.
2019 Domaine Thomson Surveyor Thomson Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Fragrant herbs (almost
lavender), ripe fruit, a
whisker of pencil lead,
gorgeous perfume
building. Pinosity.
Initially the palate is
very much about the
structure, the acidity &
tannins a corset
encircling the fruit,
crying out for food. As
air works its magic, the
wine begins to tease
with its complexity,
opening the curtain on
its depth. Cellar time
will be a great friend.
2022 Quartz Reef Bendigo Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Smoke, dustiness,
charcuterie, earth,
spices, layers of
interest with the fruit
supporting the whole.
A sense of richness
and volume, powerful
fruit, fragrant herbs,
youthful boldness with
fine tannins and bright
acidity lending great
backbone. With time,
savoury aspects grow,
the palate youthful &
vital, a long, fresh, lip-
smacking close.
Approachable but
great potential.
2023 Domaine Thomson Explorer Central Otago Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent
Volume on the nose,
earthy/forest floor
influences, berry
compote, savoury
qualities, stony
minerality. Generosity of
flavour, lovely fruit depth
yet it brings cool
freshness as well, a wisp
of gunflint later. The fruit
weight is matched by
well-judged tannins;
overall nice complexity.
Zesty acidity comes into
play on the long, dry
close, supporting that
freshness.
2023 Carrick Billet Doux Bannockburn Pinot Noir
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Young, vibrant, riffing
on darker fruits, tea
leaf, tilled earth, a
creamy quality,
perhaps even citrus
zest? Another wine
with powerful fruit,
boysenberry, dark
cherry, ripe yet dry, a
corset of fine tannins
giving structure
leading to a long, dry
close. Purity &
complexity, unfurls
beautifully on the
palate. Feels unforced
and complete. Quite
lovely.
