Chardonnay's popularity fell a few years ago, perhaps because of the lakes of boring, ''abc'' (another bloody chardonnay) that used to flood the market. However, good chardonnay is still being made and it's coming back into the sights of those who moved on to pinot gris and sauvignon blanc.
BEST VALUE
$15
Three stars (out of five)
Average value
Mellow with hints of mineral, an underlying texture, lots of flavour and a lively citric acidity on the finish.
$29
Four stars out of five
Good value
An elegant wine, lively and complex with a suggestion of toasty oak supporting the fruit (stonefruit and citrus), a hint of creamy nuts and a rich, silky mouth feel with a long, lively finish.
$25
Three and a half stars
Average value
As always, this is a wine for lovers of toasty, oaky chardonnay. With suggestions of pencil shavings and stonefruit, it has a nutty creaminess and a dryish finish.
$29
Three and a half stars
Average value
An understated wine with suggestions of nectarines, stonefruit, dusty oak, hints of nuts and cream with a crisp, dry finish.
$31
Three and a half stars
Below average value
With hints of peaches and toasted nuts, suggestions of herbs, mineral and light oak, this is focused, tight and well structured with a long, dry finish.
$39
Four stars
Average value
With attractive but understated fruit hinting of citrus, golden peaches and ripe apple, held in restraint by a suggestion of mineral and nuances of cream, nuts and gentle oak, this is stylish, elegant and harmonious with a long, integrated finish.
ANOTHER GLASS
Church Road Grand Reserve Hawkes Bay Chardonnay 2012
$49
Four stars (out of five)
Below average value
With hints of mineral, creamy toasted nuts and mellowed oak, stonefruit, grapefruit and a suggestion of caramel on the finish, this is tightly focused with a lively, crisp and firm finish. Will reward further bottle age.