I began Conefrey's version of 1953 and all that in this frame of mind.
Soon, though, I was won over. Soon, I was climbing briskly through the chapters.
Why? First, the research is thorough and access to private papers, letters and diaries gives the book a sense of authenticity, authority and fresh discovery. Second, apart from some minor quibbles with details of style, the narrative drive propels one onwards, and the well-told story is emotionally uplifting. Illuminating details make all the difference.
Third, I came away with insight into the main characters. They are all portrayed sympathetically, while not without criticism. I especially found the initial expedition leader, Eric Shipton, well-described, and I was intrigued by the shambles that was the 1951 reconnaissance mission. Conefrey is weakest on Sir Edmund Hillary himself, seemingly in awe of him. Perhaps that is because Conefrey's deeper understanding is of the British scene, context and character.
For this is a story from the British angle, bringing in themes of lost British glory, British destiny on Everest and the machinations of British individuals and institutions.
It was satisfying and helpful to read about the ambitions and the build-up, the expedition itself and the aftermath, all from this British angle.
At the same time, Conefrey explores the contentious issues - the obfuscation and lies when Shipton was sacked and Sir John Hunt installed as leader, the alleged racism towards the Sherpas, the hijacking of the expedition by nationalist interests and media in Nepal, India and Britain, fraught dealings with the press and - of course - the question of who actually stepped on the top first. Official accounts, and Sir Edmund's versions, are suitably vague. Conefrey, however, spells out exactly what happened, as he understands it, and does so in a convincing manner.
The view climbing partners should be seen as summiting as a mutual and indistinguishable pair is supported by events on Everest. Sir Edmund, apparently, helped a struggling Tenzing Norgay at one stage near the top, while roles were earlier reversed when Tenzing rescued Sir Edmund after a nasty fall into a crevasse in the ice fall. As has been noted elsewhere, this book lacks the scope and sheer brilliance of last year's Into the Silence by Wade Davis about the British failures to climb Everest in the 1920s. Nevertheless, Everest 1953 is informative, engaging and engrossing and well worth reading by anyone with any interest in the Everest story.
- Philip Somerville is a Dunedin editor and keen alpine tramper.
