Kirianna and Lachlan Poole bought a Kombi van and, with their two young children, hit the road travelling around Australia. When their third child arrived they added a caravan and began their Kiwi road trip, which included a stop in Kaikōura.
Following the main coast road (State Highway 1) south from Blenheim, you’ll reach what could be New Zealand’s most beautiful town, nestled where the mountains meet the sea.
For us, Kaikōura was a true highlight, and if you’re a fisher, you'll love it too. You can catch beautiful crayfish and blue cod, forage for kina on the rocks or head out for a dive. During our stay, we decided to drop some craypots while we explored the area for four days.
Kaikōura is also a popular eco-tourism destination, owing to the blend of marine wildlife that call it home. The giant sperm whale is the star attraction of the region, and also holds historical significance. The Māori ancestor Paikea was guided to New Zealand by a whale many centuries ago; today, Paikea’s descendants live in Kaikōura and the whale still leads both the locals and tourists here.
Despite an increase in visitor numbers, and a major earthquake in 2016, the town has been able to preserve much of its historical charm and offers a variety of exciting experiences.
Explore
There are multiple locations in this area where you can observe the charming local seals. The seals are typically on the rocks and can be watched from afar, but in our experience they can be closer than expected, and suddenly emerge from nowhere.
The best spots are the Point Kean Seal Colony/Kaikōura Peninsula Walkway and Ōhau Point, north of Kaikōura, where there are often baby seals.
Our family had a great time fishing together in Kaikōura. The kids enjoyed catching fish and discovering surprises while pulling up craypots with Dad in the beautiful water. The coastal area near the big drop-off is an excellent spot for fishing, and even smaller boats can venture into deep waters to catch fish.
Try your luck and hopefully bring home some delicious butterfish or blue cod, known for their exquisite taste and beautiful white fillets.
Fyffe House, built in 1842, is the oldest surviving building in Kaikōura and is the sole remaining structure from the pioneer whaling station, in a breathtaking seaside location. It’s right in the middle of the two-hour round-trip walk along the shoreline that connects central Kaikōura to the Point Kean Seal Colony.
Experience the beauty of nature by taking the scenic and stunning Kaikōura Peninsula Walkway coastal track - perfect for families. Excite your kids by spotting a variety of wildlife such as whales, dolphins, seals and seabirds from the clifftops. You can complete the walkway in three hours, or choose from several shorter routes.
Experience
Whale Watch Kaikōura is one of the most popular tourist attractions in New Zealand. This coast is one of the few places in the world where sperm whales come this close to shore, due to an underwater trench running close by. As well as sperm whales, lucky visitors also often see humpback whales, orca, dolphins and seals, and the many seabirds that inhabit this coast.
Kaikōura is considered one of the best places in the world to have a magical encounter with dolphins. With Dolphin Encounter, you can witness the playful and athletic dusky dolphins in their natural habitat and even swim with them, an unforgettable experience.
Eat
For over four decades, the retro caravan of Nins Bin has been a landmark. The family-owned business, now in its third generation, serves up fresh crayfish caught using sustainable fishing methods. The recipe has remained unchanged over the years, with the crays caught early in the morning and cooked to perfection in a copper pot across the road.
Served with a wedge of fresh lemon and garlic butter right by the ocean, the experience is nothing short of divine. Nins Bin also serves up mouth-watering whitebait fritters, pāua and beer-battered fish and chips during the season. If you’re in a rush, you can take a crayfish away with you, and they’ll make sure to include a lemon with your order.
The Kaikōura Seafood BBQ is a shack by the beach serving mussel fritters and barbecued crayfish. Grab a glass of wine from the booze truck next door as you wait for your platter of locally caught seafood.
The Pier Hotel has a wonderful outdoor setting where you can enjoy the ocean breeze while indulging in delicious seafood chowder and sipping a cold beer.
Camp
The Store, Kekerengu: I highly recommend staying here. This campsite, on State Highway 1 north of Kaikōura, provides an experience that takes you back 20 years or more. Park right on the beach, enjoy the sound of waves crashing on to the shore and maybe spot the local seals. Slowly wake up to the most stunning sunrise and take a morning walk to The Store for a good coffee and bagel.
The Point: This property, which has been passed down through five generations, is a special place to enjoy a camping experience that takes you back to basics. It offers a stunning natural campsite on Kaikōura Peninsula. Listen to the waves hitting the rocks and enjoy the farm animals flocking about.
The book
Extracted from The Slow Road by Kirianna and Lachlan Poole. Published by Allen and Unwin NZ. RRP $49.99.
Crayfish pappardelle
Ingredients
200g (7 oz) unsalted butter
1 shallot, finely chopped
1 red chilli, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 Tbsp lemon zest, plus extra to garnish
200g (7 oz) cherry tomatoes
¼ cup dry white wine
Meat of 1 crayfish tail, cooked and diced
300g fresh pappardelle pasta
2 Tbsp lemon juice
Salt and pepper, to taste
Bunch of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
Method
Start boiling a pot of water with a generous pinch of salt.
Heat a large skillet over medium heat, then add butter and let it melt. Toss in the shallot, chilli and garlic with the lemon zest and give it a little stir.
Add the cherry tomatoes and let them heat through for a minute before pouring in the wine.
Allow the flavours to meld for another minute.
Scatter the crayfish meat into the skillet. If raw, cook it for 8–10 minutes until the flesh is white and firm. If cooked, heat it through for 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, cook the pasta in the boiling water until al dente.
Drain, reserving a third of a cup of pasta water. Add this into the skillet with the pasta and crayfish and stir to combine.
Serve the pasta in bowls and finish with a little more lemon zest, a squeeze of lemon, salt and pepper to taste and sprinkled with flat-leaf parsley.
Enjoy!
