Torquay to Apollo Bay, 117km
The starting point of the Great Ocean Road, Torquay, 22km south of Geelong, could easily claim to be Australia’s surfing capital. Bells Beach, one of the most famous surf beaches in the country is just down the road. Two of the world’s leading surfwear and fashion brands, Rip Curl and Quiksilver, were born here and there is a large range of surf shops. The Australian National Surfing Museum claims to be the largest surfing museum in the world and encompasses interactive exhibits, memorabilia, a Surfing Hall of Fame and lots of surf art and kitsch. Torquay is a laidback sort of town with both a front and back (surf) beach, cafes, restaurants, shops and various accommodation styles from resorts to campgrounds.
The stylish resort town of Lorne is not far away; it’s great for a stroll, a spot of boutique shopping and coffee or lunch at one of the many restaurants that line the main street. Pop into the Great Ocean Road Heritage Centre inside the Lorne Visitor Centre to see the Great Ocean Road Story, a fascinating exhibition that tells the story of how the famous road was built.
Wedged between the coast and the Otway forests, Lorne is also a good base for short excursions into the hinterland. Erskine Falls is just a few minutes drive from the town centre and there are well-made walking tracks through the rainforest past the falls, huge tree ferns and towering trees.
The town of Apollo Bay is around a one-hour drive from Lorne, and the road hugs the coast the whole way. Drive through the pretty hamlets of Wye River and Kennett River and pull over at Cape Patton Lookout for a fantastic coastline view and yet another great photograph.
Apollo Bay curves around the beach and is, like Lorne, full of cafes and shops. It is also home to a lively fishing industry and you can watch the fleet unloading its catch at the wharf, or buy some of the local speciality, crayfish (lobster), at the Fishermans Co-op, down at the harbour, to eat beside the beach. Keep an eye out for the resident seals that are often snoozing in the sun at the end of the wharf.
Apollo Bay to Port Campbell, 98km
At Apollo Bay the road leaves the coast and cuts through lush green farmland and the dense rainforest of Great Otway National Park, before emerging on the western side of the Cape Otway headland at Port Campbell National Park.
Maits Rest Rainforest Trail in Otway National Park is a 30min boardwalk stroll through beautiful rainforest, where giant myrtle beeches tower above a delicate understorey of tree ferns, lichens and mosses. It’s just off the Great Ocean Road around 16km from Apollo Bay.
Alternatively, splurge on a short helicopter flight, available near the Interpretive Centre at the Twelve Apostles (12apostleshelicopters.com.au).
The lighthouse at Cape Otway. PHOTO: LEE ATKINSON
Port Campbell to Port Fairy, 92km
From Port Campbell, head to Peterborough, where the road leaves the coast once more to meander through beautiful pastoral lands and rich dairy country before returning to the coast at the regional city of Warrnambool. If you are here between June and September, head for Logans Beach, where you might be lucky enough to see one of the many female southern right whales that come here each year to give birth — this is one of the best shore-based places to see these whales and their calves in winter. The whales stay in the bay for around two or three months, so frequent visitors to the whale-watching platform in the dunes can watch the calves grow, which are around 56m long when they are born; by the time they head back to the Southern Ocean they are almost double that size. Though the whales come close to shore, you’ll get a much better look if you have binoculars.
The historic seaside village of Port Fairy is around a 30min drive west from Warrnambool and is a pretty place with many historic buildings housing restaurants, boutiques and art galleries — more than 50 of the buildings are classified by the National Trust — and a streetscape that looks much as it would have done 100 years ago. Take an early morning walk along the historic wharf and watch fishermen unload their catch of crayfish and abalone among the bobbing cruising boats and racing yachts, and chat to some of the anglers who line the riverside boardwalk, all hoping to catch breakfast fresh from the sea. Continue on past the wharf towards the harbour, following the track to Griffiths Island, where you can walk out to the historic Griffiths Island Lighthouse, built in 1859, or wander along the dune paths, although be mindful of the shearwater (muttonbird) colony.
From Port Fairy it is 295km back to Melbourne/Naarm via the Princes Highway.
ODT GRAPHIC
Great Ocean Road
How long?:
You can easily drive the Great Ocean Road in one day — and many people even do the return trip to Melbourne/Naarm in one (very long) day — but this is a drive best taken slowly, allowing time to explore the many beaches and coastal towns along the way, so make it a two- or three-day trip. If you are short of time, hook up with the A1 back to Melbourne around 12km east of Warrnambool.
When to go:
If you can, try to avoid summer peak periods and Victorian school holidays and weekends, when the heavy traffic can be frustrating. Midweek in midwinter is a glorious time to drive the route, as you’ll have the road almost to yourself, although it’s too cold to swim. Summers are dry and warm; most rain falls during winter, when temperatures can be quite chilly.
Drive rating Easy:
Sealed roads with extensive winding sections.
Drive side:
Left
Torquay to Port Fairy: 260km;
Port Fairy to Melbourne, via the A1: 295km.
Average temperatures: January: 14-21°C; July: 4-13°C
The emergency number for police and ambulance is 000
More information: visitgreatoceanroad.org.au
The book
Ultimate Road Trips, by Lee Atkinson.
Published by Hardie Grant Explore.
Photography by Lee Atkinson and others.
