Sometimes riesling can be almost masochistic with a steely shaft of acidity that continues through the finish. You need a morsel of cheese or something to counteract the crisp after taste.
However, the best wines, as always, are in balance so the acidity is not intrusive, and bottle age allows harmony to develop.
BEST UNDER $20
Tthree and a half stars (out of five)
Average value
A fresh, zesty wine, floral with hints of lime and mineral and a crisp, steely shaft of acidity on the finish.
BEST UNDER $20
Three and half stars
Average value
Lime and lemon aromas with hints of white peach, grapefruit and ripe, crisp apple, a steely backbone and a crisp lip-puckering finish.
Four stars
Good value
Becoming almost a cult wine, this oozes peach, pineapple, lime and citrus and is medium sweet with an attractive delicacy and a well-balanced, crisp finish.
Four stars
Average value
Delicious now but will develop with bottle age, this has lovely fruit - ripe apple, lemon,peach - with suggestions of grapefruit marmalade, savoury undertones, texture and a long, well-balanced finish.
Four stars
Average value
At two years old this wine, fermented in old oak barrels, is complex with hints of buttered toast and grapefruit and bitter lime marmalade, nutty undertones and a crisp finish.
Four stars
Average value
Drinking well at two years old, this mouthfilling wine hints of grapefruit marmalade and freshc itrus with hints of nuts, a steely backbone and crisp, well-balanced finish.
ANOTHER GLASS
Valli Old Vine Central Otago Riesling 2011, $28
three and half stars (out of five)
below average value
Made by Grant Taylor from 30-year old vines at Black Ridge near Alexandra, this is restrained with fresh hints of mint, lime and eau de cologne, zesty, understated and balanced with a shaft of mineral and lime, and a dry finish. Will benefit from bottle age.