There are some who think Organics is a character in the Asterix comic strip; others have visions of long-haired hippies wearing kaftans and Porridge sandals. The reality, however, is somewhat different.
The International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements (Ifoam) defines organic agriculture as follows: ''At its heart, organic viticulture avoids using synthetic chemical herbicides, pesticides or fertilisers. This requires a significant 'hands on' approach with forward thinking to pre-empt what might eventuate. It aims to create an environment with healthy soils and vines using natural treatments and vectors to control disease and pests.
"Companion plantings of plants and herbs in the rows reduce erosion, which when ploughed, fix nitrogen into the soil. Compost (often derived from the skins, pips and stems left over from winemaking) and mulch adds to soil health. Lunar phases are utilised to do certain jobs (such as compost making and planting leafy crops). Aiming for healthy, living soils full of biomass, insect and microbial life.''
Not all vineyards that farm organically or biodynamically seek certification.
The cost of certification and the desire to be judged against all their winemaking peers can be factors here.
That said, there are now more than 90 winemakers who either farm organically, or release wines from specific organically farmed vineyards.
The wines tasted above illustrate some of those differences.
One myth to dispel is that organic and biodynamic winemakers do not use sulphur.
Not so, as sulphur, used for its protection against oxidation and microbial spoilage, is still an integral part of winemaking.
Price: RRP $19.99
Rating: Very good
Subtle nose with hints of herbs, cut grass, tropical fruits and freshly baked bread. Gooseberry and feijoa on the palate. Weighty mouthfeel with texture and grip. Dry on the finish. Appealing and interesting with a point of difference, more akin to something from Europe.
* Organically farmed single-vineyard parcel produced by a non-organic winery
Price: $99.99 to $109.99
Rating: Outstanding
Lovely fragrance; ripe with spices and red fruits. Raspberry, Dawson cherry and dried herbs follow. Silky palate entry with spice and herbs on the long finish. Lots of complexity here: tannins there but integrated and supple. Youthful but poised. Aeration gives a whisper of funk. A study in balance. Just lovely.
* Biodynamically farmed. Certified
Price: Around $60
Rating: Excellent
Dark fruits, spices and a seasoning of oak. A hint of milk chocolate. Powerful, bolder wine. Immediate impact on the palate; a silky entry, then more encompassing tannins that drive the wine along. Black fruits and spices with a core of sweet fruit. Superb, lingering finish with that beam of sweet fruit. Stylish.
* Biodynamically farmed. Uncertified
