Many wine-lovers will remember the unofficial ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) movement, which had its heyday 10-15 years ago.
The ''bigger is better'' style was in vogue, which led to big buttery styles lavished with oak.
Many had the palate interest of sucking on an oak plank and drinkers less keen on carpentry deserted chardonnay for pinot gris.
Well, chardonnay is back (it never really went away of course!) and is making a wealth of interesting wines throughout the country.
Elegance rather than heft is the watchword today, with food friendliness very apparent.
Price: $50
Rating: Excellent
Shy on first opening but then up come aromas of freshly baked bread, peach and tropical fruit (some pineapple perhaps?) with a whisper of burnt matchstick.
Spiciness and butterscotch fill the mouth; ripe banana too as this wine fills the mouth.
Nice acid underpinning things.
Complex, elegant and stylish.
Price: $39
Rating: Very good
Nectarine and cashew nuts on the nose with a milky, lactic note.
A hint of charriness.
Caramel and oak on the palate with more pronounced appley acidity.
Good weight of flavour, rich and concentrated yet crisp with ripe flavours.
Good length here.
A touch of grapefruit comes up with aeration.
Price: $35
Rating: Excellent
Fruit notes of nectarine and white peach with elements of toast, spice and a smoky nuance: quite lovely.
Very mouthfilling with freshening, crisp acidity and stonefruit touches.
Excellent length of finish.
This just gets better and better.
Seamless flow across the palate.
Delicious wine.
Price: $19.99
Rating: Good
Less complex on the nose with stonefruit and a smoky character.
Has a cooler-climate feel with its tangy acidity and almost a ''sweet and sour'' feel.
Granny Smith apple and nectarine on the palate.
Less fruit driven; quite weighty with good vinosity.
Acid dominant with a touch of astringency on the finish.
Price: $32
Rating: Very good
Quite oatmealy and nutty on the nose with hints of hay or straw.
Secondary characters rather than overt fruit. Broader palate with softer acidity. Integrated and together.
Not the most complex but nice drinking: Chardonnay fans will enjoy this.
Reasonable length with hints of citrus.
Opened up with aeration.
Price: $20.99
Rating: Very good
Deeper colour here.
Gunflint and burnt match with a funky, charry, wild yeast note.
Notes of tropical fruit and pineapple come through.
Quite rich entry with a zingy freshness.
Some peach and then orange/blood orange on the palate.
Quite appealing wine with an oatmealy finish.
Price: Around $40
Rating: Very good
Fresh lift on the nose; leesy with nectarine and a hint of toast.
Ripe fruit flavours with some grapefruit too. Zesty, but nicely integrated acid with ripe citrus evident.
Creaminess on the mid palate.
This is nicely ‘together' and drinking well and opens up with aeration.
Seasons - By Alison Lambert - Available for purchase now!

The Otago Daily Times and Alison have collaborated to bring you her first cookbook – Seasons.
This book is the ultimate year-round cookbook. Seasons is filled with versatile recipes designed to inspire creativity in the kitchen, offering plenty of ideas for delicious accompaniments and standout dishes that highlight the best of what each season has to offer.
$49.99 each. Purchase here.
$44.99 for ODT subscribers. Get your discount code here.