Technically, the term roulade refers to a sweet or savoury creation where one thing is stuffed inside another and then the whole thing is rolled up.
A Swiss roll, although not actually Swiss, is one well-known example of a roulade.
So too are the French Christmas log cake – buche de noel; a stuffed rolled roast; jam roly-polys in the UK; the American ho-ho; and sushi (both traditional and our southern variation).
As you can see by the definition, the topic is rather a broad one, so the first thing to do is figure out what sort you want to make.
Are you aiming for a sweet creation or a savoury one?
While there are other options, sweet roulades generally start with a form of sponge, generally a Genoise or joconde-style sponge, while a savoury roulade will often use something like a crepe, tortilla or omelette as a base for rolling up.
For the purposes of today, let’s assume you are whipping up a sweet offering.
I know that many people opt for a Genoise sponge and that is certainly the recipe I first learned to make. Nowadays, I prefer to use a joconde or dacquoise. Let me explain the difference.
A Genoise sponge is made by whisking eggs and sugar over a gentle heat before adding flour and butter. More contemporary versions will often do away with the heating element of the whisking which results in a less stable mixture.
A joconde is a close relative of a Genoise sponge, the major difference being the inclusion of ground nuts (usually almonds). It is probably best known for its use in an Opera gateau.
A dacquoise is ostensibly a meringue with nuts added (usually hazelnuts and almonds) and occasionally a little cornflour. It becomes slightly chewy and is very easy to over-bake but, I reckon, well worth the time to get to grips with. It also lends itself nicely to a frozen dessert.
No matter which base you choose to make, there is one thing you need to make sure of – do not over-bake it. When you see sponge roulades that have a big crack down the side, it is normally because they are over-baked and have set a little more than is ideal. You want the sponge to be set and baked, but only just.
Then comes the question of what to dust it with when it comes out of the oven. You normally want to remove the sponge sheet from the tin as soon as it comes out of the oven, so it does not crinkle and go soggy. It is common to sprinkle the top of it with either sugar or starch before turning it out. Personally, I find icing sugar makes the top go soggy, so I go for caster sugar or a little fine rice flour.
The next question is around when to roll it. Pre-roll straight out of the oven, or let it cool? Honestly, at this point, the choice is yours. I used to pre-roll, but now roll when it is cold.
This is a brief introduction into the world of roulades. Next time around we will actually make one ... or two.
— Kevin Gilbert is co-owner of Gilbert’s Fine Food in Dunedin. You can email him at kevin@gilbertsfinefood.co.nz
