Mr Crerar said the circumstances of Mr Allison's death, after a fall while abseiling, were clearly established, and appeared to be caused by injuries sustained after his own slight mistake in judgement resulted in the fall.
Mr Allison (26), a Briton living in Wanaka, died on November 6, 2009, after falling about 155m during a climb at the popular rock-climbing site Chinamans Bluff in the Dart River Valley near Glenorchy, about 50km northwest of Queenstown.
He had been climbing with James Briscall (37), also from Wanaka, who told the court yesterday they were both experienced climbers.
As Mr Allison had slightly more experience, and had climbed the Chinamans Bluff rock face before, he led the climb on the day of the accident.
The two climbers had successfully scaled the planned climb in the afternoon.
About 7.30pm, they started making their way down by rappelling.
Mr Allison went down first, but found his rope jammed.
As he tugged at the rope to get it free, the small tree he had used to anchor the rope broke off, and he fell backwards, landing at the bottom of the cliff with the ropes around him.
Meanwhile, Mr Briscall was stuck on a ledge halfway down the cliff with no ropes to get himself down safely, at dusk, and he had to remain at the ledge until he was rescued unharmed in the morning.
Mountain guide Tarn Merritt Pilkington, who had led the rescue operation for the Queenstown Alpine Rescue Team, told the court police initially notified him of an overdue climbing party about 1am on November 7.
At 4am, he was asked to arrange a rescue team to search for the climbers at Chinamans Bluff, and the crew flew there by helicopter from Queenstown.
Mr Briscall was located about 7.30am, and shortly after Mr Allison was found lifeless on the ground.
No representatives from Mr Allison's family were present at the inquest, but long-time friends Richard Tribe and Nicky Sygrove, both of Wanaka, but originally from the UK, said they appeared on behalf of the family.
After the inquiry, Richard Tribe said the family were all back in Birmingham, UK, and they did not wish to speak to media.
"It has been a very sad time.
"I am just glad to get some closure for family and friends today.
"Matthew's mother, Melanie Allison, was recently in New Zealand, where she visited Wanaka, planted some trees and spread some of the ashes in his memory.
"She has now returned home," Mr Tribe said.
The coroner reserved his findings and recommendations.
