Coroner draws attention to ski boot safety

David Crerar
David Crerar
The circumstances surrounding the death last year of an Australian man who slipped or tripped on steep, hard ice needed to be brought to public attention, southern region coroner David Crerar said.

In his formal written findings regarding the death of Alan Leslie Beck (49), instrument technician, of Melbourne, Mr Crerar said he would ensure a copy of the finding was sent to Federated Mountain Clubs of New Zealand.

"In particular, I draw to public attention the need for `ski boot-type' toe-bail/heel clip, crampon bindings to be reinforced by stainless steel toe-bail safety straps."

Mr Beck died on March 9, 2008, near Bevan Col, Mt Aspiring National Park, when he slipped or tripped and fell into a "schrund" in poor visibility, while descending an ice arete to find a safe descent route for his climbing party.

His body was eventually discovered following an extensive Search and Rescue operation, involving 300 hours of volunteer time over four days.

Mr Crerar said Mr Beck's death was from extensive traumatic chest injuries, resulting in haemorrhagic shock and acute respiratory failure.

The coroner referred to evidence given by Mountain Recreation director Geoff Wyatt during the inquest in April.

"In summary, after commenting on the decision-making of the party and their equipment and experience, guide Wyatt said: `Alan Beck's decision to recce down crevasse and icy slopes in poor visibility alone, and on unfamiliar terrain, was questionable.

He was an experienced mountaineer, but placed himself in a higher mountain risk situation'."

Mr Beck and his climbing companion, Andrew Parker, entered the Mt Aspiring National Park on March 3, walking across the Bonar Glacier to Colin Todd hut, intending to climb Mt Aspiring via the Northwest Ridge.

The pair met Cameron Mulvey and Anna Ruotsi at Colin Todd Hut and arranged to climb together.

However, inclement weather on March 4 and 6 forced them to return to the hut.

After abandoning the attempt on Mt Aspiring, the group travelled across the Bonar Glacier to Bevan Col, intending to descend into the head of the Matukituki Valley.

The weather progressively deteriorated and, on March 8, Mr Beck attempted a reconnaissance, but failed.

On March 9, Mr Beck made his second attempt.

While the rain had stopped, white-out conditions still prevailed.

When he had not returned 90 minutes later, Mr Parker and Mr Mulvey went to look for him.

A search and rescue operation had begun meanwhile, because Mr Mulvey's group was overdue.

The three remaining climbers were located about 4.30pm and the search began for Mr Beck.

He was eventually found on March 12, under an ice shelf about 70m from the ice ridge of the col.

Mr Beck was found sitting and slumped forward with the hood of his jacket pulled up over his head.

It appeared he had survived the initial fall and moved into the cave, possibly to shelter from the weather.

Mr Crerar also referred to Mr Wyatt's comments on Mr Beck's equipment, specifically his crampons.

"One crampon was still attached to his boot and the other loose in the cavern, with the safety buckle intact," Mr Wayatt said.

"I cannot discount a crampon detachment was part of the accident. However, it is equally plausible that the crampon was ripped off at the time of impact.

"It is vital the groove in front of the plastic boot is deep and secure for the wire crampon bail.

"This groove can become shallow with toe-wear, causing the bail to pop out under strain.

"Alan's crampons both had stainless steel toe-bail safety straps in addition to safety straps.

"This is an important feature for the `ski boot-type toe bail/heel clip bindings'."

 

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