Mr Scheele (24), who was eventually flown off the mountain, is reported to be in a stable, comfortable condition in a Kathmandu hospital.
It is understood he might be able to leave hospital in a couple of days but will not be returning to New Zealand until after all four of the original climbing party are reunited.
Graham Frost, father of expedition leader Rob Frost (30), told the Otago Daily Times yesterday he had new information from Nepal about what happened to Mr Dare (29) and Mr Scheele less than 400m from the summit of the previously unclimbed mountain.
Mr Frost said the two were coping better with the altitude than the others and it was decided they should make the first attempt on the summit.
It was planned that Mr Frost and the other member of the party, Andre van Dusschoten (37), would support them and then make their own attempt.
When the accident occurred, Mr Scheele was leading the way up a 60deg pitch on a 50-60m rope with Mr Dare belaying below.
''Because of the cloud cover [Mr Dare] had only about 30m visibility.
''He knew Scott was up above him but couldn't see what he was doing.
''The next thing he remembers, a small avalanche came down past him.''
Mr Frost said when the avalanche cleared, Mr Dare realised ''instead of being several metres above him, [Mr Scheele] was about 90m below him hanging on a rope''.
''[Mr Scheele] would have been sliding down on ice and snow and he had abrasions to his face and his shoulder but no serious blood loss.''
Mr Scheele broke a crampon, had his helmet knocked off and was unconscious initially but had got to his feet by the time Mr Dare reached him.
Mr Frost said Mr Scheele had suffered concussion and ''didn't even realise the accident had happened for a while''.
''He certainly wasn't all that coherent.''
The pair spent the night on the slope without a tent as Mr Dare assisted Mr Scheele down.
''He spent the next 22 hours lowering him down that 500m to where their camp two tent was,'' Mr Frost said.
Mr Dare was then able to radio the other members of the party and set off an emergency beacon about 1am on Monday.
Mr Dare's mother, Helen Curtis of Whitianga, told the ODT she had spoken to her son on Tuesday and had been told Mr Scheele was ''groggy and confused'' after severe concussion but X-rays and scans had shown no broken bones.
Mrs Curtis said Mr Dare was the son of a hill country shepherd and had spent a lot of time in the mountains.
Her son was always ''super prepared'' and had spent six months training for the Himalayan climb.
''Ben would never leave a friend, or anybody. I think it's just in his bones.''
She would not be surprised if Mr Dare decided to make another attempt on the mountain.
''I feel sure they will give it another go.''
Mr Frost said his son and Mr van Dusschoten were at base camp resting and planning how to remove their equipment from the mountain. Mr Frost said the group set out with four goals.
''... one, to come back alive, two was to come back friends, and three was to come back with all their digits and toes; frostbite; and the fourth one was to actually summit.
''They have certainly achieved three of them.''
