Fiordland on a budget
To go over the Milford Track from the head of Te Anau is a privilege which many have enjoyed, but which many more would be enabled to appreciate if the expense were somewhat lightened. The coach fares from Lumsden, boat fare up and down the lake, and 18 shillings a day on the track are items which, to men with families and to young men of moderate means, prevail in their decision to spend a holiday elsewhere. But to reach Glade House from Queenstown costs the price of a passage up the lake, about 6s, and four days of glorious mountain walking free of all charge. It simply means that the pedestrian carries his own provisions and tent, and that is no great trouble. The only difficulty is that of finding the way.
A start is made from Elfin Bay. The steamer from Queenstown arrives there about 11 o'clock if punctual and by the time the walkers have enjoyed a bush lunch, Howden Hut, nine hours quick walking, is out of the question, except for the very fit. The old Greenstone Hut will be called upon to accommodate the party on their first night. If the weather is fine and calm, a person does not much worry about the two apologetic bunks. He can sit and smoke a pipe or eat his food with a scene before him which certainly warrants better accommodation. He will not be too tired to toddle down towards the river to see the last rays of the sun on the snowy peak of Christina, just visible away up the valley. And he has not paid 18s for this day!
It is an easy day's walk from the Greenstone Hut to Howden; tussock, bush, and shingle; little fear of missing the track; and knowledge that ahead lies a substantial hut if the weather shows signs of treachery. Howden Hut is only six hours' walking from the Greenstone Hut. The view of the lake from the hut is charming. Having spent a night in the Howden Hut and enjoyed the beauties of a mountain morning, the pedestrian enters the bush immediately behind the hut, following a well-defined track up to the tussocky end spur of the Livingstone Range. From the top of the range above the bush — Key Summit, as it is called — a glorious view of the Hollyford Valley obtains, and on a clear, mistless day a splendid picture of Mount Christina is presented, with Lake Marian tucked away at its foot.
— ODT, 26.5.1924 (Compiled by Peter Dowden)