I'd always thought of Trinity Hill wines as big and over the top, a bit like the affable John Hancock himself, who was in town recently promoting his wines.
However, this tasting of six of the premium black label Trinity Hill wines (about $30-$33), mostly from Gimblett Gravels in Hawkes Bay, showed a change, an uncharacteristic restraint, which I think is for the better.
"We're pulling back and thinking more about food in the last four or five years," Hancock says.
This showed particularly in the pinot gris, chardonnay, and the two reds - not that they lack flavour or style, but they no longer knock you over with their power and concentration. Instead, they are more charming, accessible and user-friendly.
Trinity Hill Pinot Gris 2008 had a lovely lush, silky, mouthfilling texture, and a charming balance and dryish finish.
Hancock has a passion for chardonnay and the Gimblett Gravels 2007 chardonnay was deliciously balanced, rich, silky textured with a lovely mealy hint and a lingering aftertaste.
Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2007 showed the characteristic purity of fruit with a hint of pepper, silky texture and long finish this variety shows in Hawkes Bay.
The Gimblett 2006, a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and other classic Bordeaux varieties was beautifully textured, powerful and stylish with a hint of licorice among the rich flavours.
And for a luscious dessert wine, the 2007 Noble Viognier is decadent but not cloying, with its complex barrel fermentation and slinky texture. Enjoy with a fruit dessert or some blue cheese.
