Travel by rail in Europe and you won’t waste a single moment. As soon as you step aboard a train, you can admire the scenery as it morphs from industrial smokestacks to farm land to steeple-dotted towns. On sleeper services, you can wake up in an entirely new country and disembark in the heart of a city — no waiting at the baggage carousel and not an airport bus in sight.
The tricky part is choosing where to start, but Amsterdam is a well-connected springboard to central and Eastern Europe. Within moments of renting a bike from Centraal station, you can cycle past the canalside grachtenpanden (narrow historic houses) en route to the poignant Anne Frank House and awesome Rijksmuseum, which houses artwork by Dutch master painters. That night, you'll board the European Sleeper and dream of Van Gogh’s sunflower fields.
Your alarm clock is the sound of the train clattering into Berlin Hauptbahnhof. Public transport makes it easy to zip around the teeming German capital (the most populous in the European Union), so take it all in: WW2 and Cold War sights; the monumental Brandenburg Gate; flea markets; modern-art galleries; and nightlife you won’t be telling mum about.
By now, your brain is brimming with quaint canals, baroque buildings and modernist art. Then you reach Vienna, adding even more to your crowded photo library — palaces, royal gardens and the MuseumsQuartier, where 60 world-class galleries vie for attention in a former imperial stables.
A brisk train ride away is Bratislava. With fewer big-ticket sights, the scrappy Slovakian capital is a palate-cleanser for frazzled travellers. Meander around the Old Town’s candy-coloured streets, and make time for local curiosities, from humorous statues to Brutalist architecture to dinner inside a UFO.
The views are just as restorative. Gaze out from the turrets of Fishermans Bastion or from Batthyany Square across the Danube toward the Gothic Revival-style parliament building. Or you could head behind the grand facade of Budapest Keleti station. Who says your train-hopping adventure needs to end here?
PRACTICALITIES
Getting there and around
Reach Amsterdam or Budapest by train from around Europe or, from the UK, catch a ferry to Amsterdam.
From further afield, international flights reach Amsterdam.
When to go
Summer (June to August) is peak season, with the best chance of sunny skies and 100% chance of crowds.
Avoid them by travelling in spring (March to May) or autumn (September to November).
If you don’t mind short, cold days, Christmas markets fill city squares in December. Grab a Glhwein (spiced hot wine) and shop.
Book well ahead for Christmas and New Year.
Things to note
Book in advance, especially sleepers, to guarantee your chosen trains and lower prices: advance tickets can be a quarter of the cost of flexible fares.
Under-26 discounts apply to many journeys, and some countries offer cheaper fares (or free travel) for over-65s. Print out tickets or show them on your phone. Follow local news to be aware of train strikes,
AT A GLANCE
Eat
Chocolate sponge, chocolate coating and apricot jam, sachertorte is a cake connoisseur’s dream. Nibble it in Vienna’s Hotel Sacher where it was created by chef Franz Sacher in 1832.
Drink
Since Benedictine monks began brewing in 993 CE, gallons of pilsner have been gulped at venues around Prague. Try the vaults of 15th-century beer hall U Flek.
Stay
Budapest has distinct Art Nouveau flourishes and many of its hotels have conserved this opulent style, including Gresham Palace, complete with original ironwork and stained glass.
Experience
The East Side Gallery, a mile-long section of the Berlin Wall, stands witness to the city’s past division. Its murals are darkly funny, often political and brimming with hope. Go early to beat the crowds.
Shop
For over 300 years, De Negen Straatjes (the Nine Streets) of Amsterdam have been alive with arts and crafts, and today they’re also filled with cafes and vintage boutiques.
