People sit in silence at Greenland’s Ilulissat Icefjord.
A wooden boardwalk winds its way down to a fjord filled with millions of icebergs, some as tall as skyscrapers. The staccato sounds of calving and splintering ice fill the air.
On both sides of the boardwalk are remains of turf huts from an abandoned Thule settlement, echoes from another century.
Snuggled in the boardwalk’s wooden planks is a small plaque that discreetly commemorates the icefjord’s status as a Unesco World Heritage Site.
At the end of the path, a conglomeration of rock formations awaits.
As the ice cracks and pops, a whale spouts in the distance.
Where icebergs are born
Situated 250km north of the Arctic Circle on the shores of Disko Bay, the Greenland ice cap reaches the sea at the Ilulissat Icefjord. Rich in Inuit history and a feeding ground for migrating whales, the Sermeq Kujalleq Glacier is one of the most active and fastest-moving in the world and has been the object of scientific attention for more than 200 years.
It has significantly added to the understanding of ice cap glaciology, climate change and related geomorphic processes. In 2004, Ilulissat Icefjord became Greenland’s first Unesco World Heritage Site.
Blending architecture and nature
The latest contribution to Ilulissat’s landscape is the Ilulissat Icefjord Centre, constructed in 2021 by architect Dorte Mandrup. His intention was to create a wing-shaped structure that is like a snowy owl’s flight through the landscape, which would tell the story of Ilulissat and the icefjord.
Designed as a year-round visitor centre, this is an architectural gem of mostly recycled steel and it houses exhibitions on ice and evolution on both a local and global scale.
Its gently sloping, curved wooden roof serves as an open terrace and viewing platform that overlooks the icefjord and Disko Bay, leading down to the start of the boardwalk.
An abundance of icebergs
With a seemingly endless mass of frozen slopes and shelves and crags that extend as far as the eye can see, it is difficult not to become overwhelmed with the enormity of these natural ice sculptures.
The iceberg that sank the Titanic is thought to have originated from this area and the warm West Greenland current carries these mighty bergs northward towards the top of Baffin Bay, shrinking and breaking as they go.
Three main hiking trails of varying difficulties that range from 1km to 7km circle the icefjord, affording stunning views, with the option of scrambling over rocks for the most favourable vantage point. Heading back towards town, the melancholic howls of sled dogs pierce the air.
Back in the reality of day-to-day life, a visit to the icefjord becomes a humbling experience.
Find your joy
— Getting there: Direct flights to Ilulissat are available from within Greenland, Iceland and Nunavut, Canada. Or travel by ship with a cruise line like Adventure Canada.
— Accessibility: There is a boardwalk that leads to the icefjord giving easy accessibility during warmer months for visitors with disabilities, wheelchairs and strollers. The distance is 1.3km each way.
— When to go: October to April is the best time to view the northern lights and go dog-sledding, snowshoeing or cross-country skiing. The warmer months bring the midnight sun, with opportunities for whale watching and kayaking. There are also several popular events in June, like Greenland National Day and the three-day Kangia Race.
— Further information: Admission charge for Icefjord Centre. No booking required. Open year-round. Cafe on-site. Book an igloo room at Hotel Arctic (hotelarctic.com), which overlooks the icefjord.
Other quiet places in the Arctic
Port Epworth, Canada
Sail through the Northwest Passage to Port Epworth, a protected natural harbour between Victoria Island and mainland Nunavut. It is being considered for designation as a Unesco World Heritage Site due to its natural beauty and geological significance, including a well-preserved assortment of stromatolites, or fossil bacteria colonies, that lived at the bottom of the ocean almost 2billion years ago.
Don't miss: Viewing the vibrant tundra flowers and stromatolites.
Fairbanks, Alaska, USA
Located near the Auroral Oval, a ring that circles the earth at a latitude of 65 to 70 degrees north, the sky in Fairbanks is a canvas for the aurora borealis (viewing season runs from August to April). It was originally a goldrush boomtown and is now referred to as the Golden Heart of Alaska.
Don’t miss: Visiting the town of North Pole, only a 15-minute drive from Fairbanks, where you can enjoy the spirit of Christmas year-round.
The book
The Joy of Quiet Places by Lonely Planet, $49.99 RRP.
Reproduced with permission.
