A golden new age of cruising

MS Noordam in Milford Sound. PHOTO: SUPPLIED
MS Noordam in Milford Sound. PHOTO: SUPPLIED
Dennis and Rosamund Knill take a cruise  and discover what it’s like to escape the real world.

Cruising is back! At any given time, on any given day, at any given port, a cruise ship is slipping its moorings heading for the open sea.

So many ships, so many ports, so many choices — after years of being in the doldrums, cruising has become one of the fastest growing sectors of international travel. Today it’s Auckland’s turn. On a warm summer’s day at the height of the cruise season, berthed alongside Queen’s Wharf is one of Holland America’s growing fleet of ships preparing to sail off into the sunset as it circumvents New Zealand en-route to Sydney.

Weighing in at 82,318 tonnes with 986 cabins spread over 11 decks (two-thirds with private balconies), this towering and impressive piece of modern-day shipbuilding gives its joyful passengers an opportunity to escape the day-to-day pressures of the real world. On board MS Noordam are 1972 passengers made up of 91 Kiwis, 243 Australians, with the balance predominantly American followed by a small contingent of Canadians and Asians.

This tall and sophisticated vessel comes with indescribable luxury that is light years away from the hustle and bustle of the outside world. With 770 crew from 40 different countries, this is United Nations at its best, ready and willing to spoil all those on board

Checking in is simplicity itself and while our luggage was being whisked away to our cabin by the ship’s stewards, we gave the ship’s photographer an obligatory smile on our way to a compulsory muster-station drill before getting the urge to explore the irresistible.

Going on a cruise these days does not cost the earth. During summer each year, thousands of New Zealanders are riding the royal wave on dozens of luxury superliners cruising our waters. Such is the popularity that 127 cruise ships will berth in Auckland this year alone.

While most Kiwis have a special affinity with the sea, when one thinks of taking a cruise, cruising around New Zealand is not a destination that readily springs to mind. But for first-timers this is probably the best opportunity to experience what life is really like on board a floating five-star resort.

The HydroPool on Noordam. PHOTO: DOUGLAS PEEBLES
The HydroPool on Noordam. PHOTO: DOUGLAS PEEBLES
Relaxation starts the moment you set foot on board and the sense of space is liberating so you will never feel crowded. Stroll the spacious decks, sink into a voluptuous armchair in one of the many elegant lounges or spend some quiet time in the drawing room with its library books and countless board games. Perhaps a movie appeals, or a flutter at the casino — maybe a tutored wine tasting or cooking lesson to entrance one’s palate, or just chill out in one of the two swimming pools and three hot tubs? And the fitness freaks, can exercise in the state-of-the-art gymnasium or indulge in the spa, with its enticing range of beauty therapies that promise ageless bliss.

There’s something remarkably liberating about cruising; freedom from time restraints plays a big part — as does testing yourself each day to see how much food you can eat in any one sitting in any one of six restaurants!

Noordam comes with an army of 200 chefs who prepare 9000 meals a day. We learn the average weight gain put on by passengers over a 14-day cruise is between four to eight kilos. We ponder: eat up and be merry, or diet?

The Lido restaurant on the upper deck is informal and offers a full buffet service morning, noon and night, plus a deli bar with lighter and healthier meals. In contrast the dining rooms on decks two and three are more formal, with the option of open dining or at a time to suit.

The Pinnacle Bar on Noordam.
The Pinnacle Bar on Noordam.

For a small cover charge you can also opt for Pinnacle, a much smaller silver-service grill with its specialty of 15-ounce steaks, Tamarind, an Asian-inspired pop-up eatery, or Canaletto, an experience in Italian suave and sophistication, notably famous for its home-made pastas. Whatever your choice you will not be disappointed.

The Pinnacle Grill on  Noordam. PHOTO: DOUGLAS PEEBLES
The Pinnacle Grill on Noordam. PHOTO: DOUGLAS PEEBLES
Food and wine play a big part of daily life on board, and are taken seriously by the ship’s owners. The restaurants cater seamlessly to passengers’ every whim. Long gone is the eat-all-you-can mentality; in its place is an ethos of quality, not quantity.

Day two comes all too quickly with our arrival into Tauranga. For most of the afternoon we walk casually around Mount Maunganui, indulging in some much-needed retail therapy. Later our fellow passengers who visited Rotorua recalled their frustration when the coach driver locked the keys in the bus and they spent two hours standing in the rain until a replacement key was delivered.

Napier calls; it’s hugely atmospheric, with its Art Deco buildings and its lush orchards and vineyards that contribute to some undeniably fine cuisine. They’re a hospitable lot, and as we disembark the Dixie band is belting away — it’s all rather festive and an opportunity to stroll around the city with its gleaming vintage cars and their proud owners bedecked in resplendent clothing from a bygone era.

Napier is one of the destinations the Noordam visits. PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
Napier is one of the destinations the Noordam visits. PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
Good morning Lyttelton. We smile again for the camera as we head off for a two-hour sightseeing tour of Christchurch. We are amazed by the flamboyancy of the new buildings’ architecture, and the extent of the masses of buildings still under construction after the 2011 earthquakes.

Port Chalmers is our next port of call and the gateway to Dunedin, famous for its university students, brewery, Scottish heritage and former chocolate factory. The port itself invites you to explore its architectural heritage, a mixture of charming shops, cafes and hotels.

The following morning, much to everyone’s disappointment, captain Mark Zoll advises passengers that, owing to extreme gale force winds and potential 40-foot swells, entering Milford Sound has been cancelled. With the extra day gained, a change of course was ordered to miss the storm, but not without 25-foot swells, which proved to be a testing time for many of the passengers.

Hobart harbour. PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
Hobart harbour. PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
We now turn towards Tasmania — it will be two days before we sight land again. By now we are truly relaxed and long past being worried about getting cabin fever. Sleep does not come easily for many passengers crossing the Tasman until safely moored at Hobart. We opt for a hop-on, hop-off, 90-minute tour of Hobart, ending with a relaxing espresso and muffin at Coffee Roasters immediately across the road.

Flinders railway station in Melbourne. PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
Flinders railway station in Melbourne. PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
The next day we arrive at Melbourne. Most go ashore but we catch up on emails and relax in the library until noon before going on a one-hour walking tour of the city.

Sydney is our final port. Disembarking, we reflect on all the memories and the good times, nurture thoughts of hobnobbing with the Morrisons from NYC, the Williams family from the Gold Coast and the Colemans from Wellington, the wonderful activities on board, the excellent meals and vintage wines, and the captain and his officers all in neatly-pressed black and white uniforms.

Sydney is the cruise's final destination. PHOTO: SUPPLIED
Sydney is the cruise's final destination. PHOTO: SUPPLIED
On the list of other things that Noordam does well are the daily activities and promotions delivered to your cabin each evening. From 7am to 11pm, everything from tai chi to team trivia to bingo is covered in detail.

Our final night at sea was notable for two things — a mood of finality, not one of sadness, and a realisation that it was soon to end. Land feels odd and, for those still to experience cruising, they might surely look down on us with resentment.

But MS Noordam is enjoying a new golden age of cruising and is back in business with luxury cruises that are as popular as ever with packaged holidays bigger and better than the last one.

Airport transfers: Con-X-ion www.cxn.com.au