Compelled to create

Sam Low enjoys shopping at markets. Photo: Vanessa Wu
Sam Low enjoys shopping at markets. Photo: Vanessa Wu
Sam Low is known for three things — winning New Zealand’s MasterChef last year, making award-winning coffee and going viral on social media for re-plating his quarantine room service.

Now he can add cookbook author to that list with the release of Modern Chinese, Low’s attempt to demystify modern Chinese cooking with accessible, easy recipes made from ingredients from the supermarket.

Low was born in Fiji and grew up in his parents’ noodle factory.

"One of my earliest food memories was hassling the workers for a taste of the roti and curry they brought from home for their lunches."

He moved to New Zealand when he was 8 years old and his parents bought a dairy in West Auckland which supplied food to a largely Pasifika community, later taking over a takeaway outlet.

This was where Low got his first taste of commercial food production, starting out on the wok station when he was 15.

He soon realised he had an affinity for food and attended hospitality classes, worked part-time at Auckland Seafood School and completed a food and beverage apprenticeship at SkyCity — that was where he discovered coffee.

"My curiosity has always led me to the most interesting places and once I got a taste for coffee I was all in. Coffee opened up a world for me."

Low went on to compete and represent New Zealand on the world stage after winning the New Zealand Barista Championship in 2016 and latte art championships in 2013 and 2015.

After that he was at a bit of a loss. On the side he had been cooking and sharing on social media mostly Chinese dishes he was creating and experimenting with.

He created Da Lin, a pop-up concept using the ingredients available around him and drawing on his own experience and influences to assimilate Chinese food into his environment.

"It felt exciting and new while still paying homage to my family, and to the cuisine’s place of origin. Ultimately, my food reflects who I am: this mish-mash of everywhere and everything I’ve experienced."

Low returned to New Zealand from Melbourne in 2020 which is when his re-plating his food into fine-dining-worth dishes went viral while he was "bored out of his mind".

Then came MasterChef, an opportunity to do what he loved best, telling and celebrating diverse food stories.

"It was, and remains, one of the hardest things I’ve ever done — physically and mentally. I didn’t want just to cook well, but embody my absolute truth, with a generous openness about being Chinese and queer."

The show made him a better cook and pushed him out of his comfort zone and gave him an avenue through which he could fully embrace his identity and cook food that is meaningful to him.

While Low grew up eating Cantonese food, he started to explore the diversity of regional Chinese cuisine as it arrived in New Zealand. Sichuan cuisine has probably had the most impact on the way he cooks and the recipes in his new book, he says.

Low is a big fan of yum cha. It is one of his favourite ways of eating.

"What I really love is the detail and precision that go into every dim sum."

Along with some tips on ingredients and equipment, Low includes recipes for bites and snacks, soups, rice and noodles, seafood, meat and sweet things.

THE BOOK

This is an extract from Modern Chinese: 70+ easy, everyday recipes from the winner of MasterChef NZ by Sam Low. Recipe photography © Melanie Jenkins (Flash Studios). RRP $49.99. Hardback. Published by Allen & Unwin NZ. Out now.

Microwave Milo cakes

As you can probably tell by now, I love using the microwave. It makes so many things so much easier, like melting, reheating, defrosting and making things like this microwave cake in about 1 minute!

Milo is such a nostalgic flavour for me. I remember drinking it in my parents’ Chinese cafe in Fiji and I’ve not really stopped. 

Here’s a cake you can literally make in a few minutes for those times when you don’t know what to make, or for a cheeky single-serve to go with your Netflix binge. Or for when you wish you had cake lying around to go with your favourite ice cream in the freezer to impress guests. 

Just multiply the recipe for however many guests you have. Pour the batter into separate bowls/mugs and microwave one at a time.

Makes 1 big portion

2 Tbsp flour

⅛ tsp baking soda

pinch of salt

3 Tbsp Milo or malt drink or hot chocolate powder

1½Tbsp brown sugar (or any sugar)

1 egg

15g butter or coconut oil, melted

ice cream or whipped or pouring cream to serve

Method

In a small bowl, mix all the ingredients, except the ice cream or cream, until well combined.

Pour the batter into a medium-sized microwave-proof bowl or large mug. The bowl/mug should be only half full. Microwave, uncovered, for 60-90 seconds depending on the strength of your microwave.

When cooked, the cake should double in height. Serve with your favourite ice cream, whipped cream or pouring cream for one of the quickest cake desserts ever.

The lowdown

Mix ingredients together for batter. Microwave batter in a large mug. Serve with ice cream or cream. Approx. 5 minutes.

Salt and pepper fried tofu

Fried tofu is a gateway method of preparation for most people to get into the wonderful world of tofu. The crispy outer layer tossed in a special seasoning is giving fried chicken pleasure, without nearly as much of the guilt attached. It’s the perfect dish for vegetarians or as something to accompany another protein so the table feels more balanced. 

Serves 2-4 as a side with rice

Tofu preparation

500g firm tofu, drained and cut into 3cm cubes

2 tsp salt

1 litre boiling water

500ml canola or vegetable oil

1 egg, beaten

⅔ cup cornflour

Finishing

2 Tbsp oil

2 spring onions, chopped

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 capsicum, deseeded and chopped into 1cm pieces

¼ tsp garlic powder

¼ tsp white pepper

½ tsp salt

1 tsp sugar

½ tsp chicken bouillon powder (optional)

1 red chilli, finely diced (optional)

coriander to garnish (optional)

Method

In a heatproof bowl, add the cubed tofu, salt and boiling water and leave to soak for 5 minutes. This will season the tofu. Drain the cubes of tofu in a colander then carefully lay them on a clean tea towel. Pat with paper towels until thoroughly dried.

Preheat the oil in a shallow non-stick pot and bring it up to 170ºC. Place the tofu in a bowl, pour over the beaten egg and lightly toss until well coated. Sprinkle in the cornflour and coat all the pieces well. Fry in small batches (or all at once if using a large pan/pot) for 4-5 minutes, or until golden brown on the exterior. Take the tofu out with a slotted spoon or spider and set aside.

In a large pan/wok heat the 2 tablespoons of oil, then add the spring onion, garlic and capsicum and fry over a high heat for 1 minute until fragrant. Add the fried tofu cubes and stir-fry for 30 more seconds. Turn off the heat and sprinkle over all the seasonings and chilli, stirring well until combined.

Serve garnished with coriander, if using.

The lowdown:

Pour boiling water and salt over the cubed tofu in a bowl, drain and dry. Coat with batter mix and fry until golden. Fry the aromatics in a pan and toss in the fried tofu. Garnish. Approx. 20-30 minutes.

Steamed salmon in chilli bean sauce

This perfectly balanced combination of spicy, fragrant flavours and the delicate steamed salmon makes it an incredibly drool-worthy main for the middle of the table. 

Substitute the salmon with any fish — frozen basa fillets work well too. Just be aware that steaming times will differ depending on the fish type, size and fat content. Feel free to use a whole fish instead.

Serves 2-4 as a side with rice

600g-800g pin-boned, skin-on salmon fillets

2 Tbsp Shaoxing or any aromatic rice wine

½ tsp salt

30g fresh ginger, sliced

Chilli sauce

3 Tbsp oil

1 Tbsp preserved black bean

2 Tbsp Sichuan chilli bean paste (doubanjiang) or sriracha or your favourite chilli sauce

30g fresh ginger, finely chopped

6 cloves garlic, finely chopped

100ml water

1 Tbsp light soy sauce

2 tsp sugar

2 Tbsp black vinegar

salt to taste

1½ Tbsp cornflour mixed with 3 tablespoons water to make a thickening slurry

small handful of coriander, chopped, to garnish (option0al)

Method

For the fish, prepare a steamer with a lid over a wok or a large pot with at least 2 litres of boiling water. Rub the rice wine and salt over salmon fillets and lay them on the dish skin-side down. Top with the ginger slices.

Steam the fish for 15-20 minutes until cooked. Use a chopstick to poke through the flesh at the thickest point; if there’s resistance, steam for a little longer. Once the fish is cooked, remove the sliced ginger and turn off the steamer but let it sit in the residual heat so the fish stays hot.

For the chilli sauce, place the oil, black bean and chilli bean paste in a wok or medium pan and cook over a high heat, constantly moving it around to prevent burning, until fragrant (about a minute). Add the ginger and garlic and fry for another minute. Add in the water plus the cooking liquid from the steamed fillets (hold the fish in place with chopsticks and tilt the juices from the dish into the wok/pan). Add in the soy sauce, sugar and black vinegar. Bring to a simmer for 1 minute and taste. Add salt if required.

Reduce the heat to medium. Slowly stir in as much of the slurry as needed to reach your desired consistency — it should resemble a thick pouring gravy. Turn off the heat.

Pour the sauce over the top of the fish. Garnish with coriander, if desired.

The lowdown

Season the salmon and steam with ginger. In a pan or wok, fry aromatics, add water and juices from fish with seasoning, thicken the sauce and pour over fish. Approx. 25 minutes

 

Seasons - By Alison Lambert  - Available for purchase now!

The Otago Daily Times and Alison have collaborated to bring you her first cookbook – Seasons.  

This book is the ultimate year-round cookbook. Seasons is filled with versatile recipes designed to inspire creativity in the kitchen, offering plenty of ideas for delicious accompaniments and standout dishes that highlight the best of what each season has to offer.  

 

$49.99 each. Purchase here.

$44.99 for ODT subscribers. Get your discount code here.