Two climbers have died in separate accidents over two days in the Aoraki-Mt Cook National Park - a New Zealander living in Melbourne and a Briton climbing with three companions.
The body of the male climber who fell to his death on Saturday evening was recovered by rescuers yesterday, along with his climbing party of three who spent a freezing night on a Mt Cook cliff face.
The man, a British national in his early 30s who was working in New Zealand, fell around 609m near the Mt Sefton Bivvy above the Mueller Glacier, Inspector Dave Gaskin said.
The accident happened because the climber was not qualified to attempt the ascent, and did not have the right equipment with him, Insp Gaskin said.
''It was a jolly big fall which he couldn't have survived.''
There was nothing the three others in the climbing party could do as they were roped to him, and they were forced to spend the night on the cliff face until rescuers reached them yesterday afternoon, said Insp Gaskin.
''They were extremely cold and wet and were flown out to the Mt Cook base by helicopter.''
All three were checked by paramedics at the base and found to be uninjured.
Emergency services were alerted to the accident late on Saturday, but due to failing light and bad weather conditions they could not attempt a rescue.
Three members of the Aoraki-Mt Cook Alpine Rescue Team started the rescue at 8am yesterday and were off the mountain by 2pm.
''The rescue team have had a very busy weekend and have performed admirably. They are a fine bunch of young men and women who do their job in extreme circumstances,'' Insp Gaskin said.
It was the second of two deaths on Mt Cook at the weekend, following the death of a New Zealand climber who fell on Friday morning.
About 11am on Friday, a 36-year-old New Zealander, who lived in Melbourne, slipped and fell about 200m down a steep, icy gully as he was approaching the Tasman Saddle Hut.
His brother witnessed the fall and had to spend the night in the hut before rescuers could reach him.
The victim was still alive when rescuers reached him, Helicopter Line pilot Jim Campbell said.
''He was very badly hurt and he'd lost his hat and gloves in the fall so he was very cold.''
The rescue team carried the man by stretcher down a glacier, walking two hours to reach a rescue helicopter.
A Westpac Rescue Helicopter from Christchurch was called to help with search and rescue co-ordination at the Mt Cook base.
By the time it arrived, the man had been transported to Mt Cook Village by a local helicopter service and had been pronounced dead by paramedics.
He had been planning a four-day ski tour of the area and was using the Tasman Saddle Hut as a base, police said.
Mr Campbell said police told him the man was well-equipped but was not wearing crampons when he slipped.
A massive rescue bid was launched shortly after 11am on Friday. Constable Joseph Rush, of Twizel, said weather conditions were severe, with poor visibility, strong wind gusts and -15degC temperatures.
The man's name will not be released until his family has been notified.