'Quantum leap' from emerging designers

Models Sophie Peat, Aimee Kenworthy, Kate Fitzgerald, Maddie Kelly wearing Nandita Gupta, of...
Models Sophie Peat, Aimee Kenworthy, Kate Fitzgerald, Maddie Kelly wearing Nandita Gupta, of India, with the judges silhouetted in the foreground. Photo by Jane Dawber.
Stunning, out of this world and often intricately detailed designs created a spectacle at the iD Dunedin Emerging Designer Awards last night, and showed why the awards continue to grow in international importance.

Twenty-eight finalists from eight countries, including New Zealand, sent their models down the catwalk at the Lion Foundation Arena, in Dunedin, in outfits ranging from three-dimensional dresses, to Oriental-style layered suits, to dresses with sky-high shoulder pads.

Otago Polytechnic School of Fashion academic leader Margo Barton said there had been a "quantum leap" in the quality of design since the awards started in 2005 and "even a big jump in calibre" since last year.

"This is absolutely an international competition with incredibly high calibre of entrants and finalists. It's very encouraging to see these young designers working and playing together, building on their life experiences," she said.

The sold-out crowd appeared to relish each and every design with applause - and laughter for the more wacky entries.

Jonathan Stern (25), of Israel, was awarded first prize and $5000 for his collection "Variations of Masculinity". He had studied at the Shenkar College of Engineering and Design in Ramat-Gan.

Stern said, in an earlier release, that he had decided to enter the awards because as a graduate designer it was a great opportunity to be part of such an event.

"I believe that every step in the long journey, when you want to achieve recognition and success as a designer, is important."

His collection of menswear covered a variety of different looks - day and evening wear, detail and casual, high street fashion and tailored garments. Wool, denim, lace, vinyl, sateen, leather and cashmere were used.

Stern was one of three finalists from Israel.

Another Israeli Hani Sagiv was awarded third place and $1000 with her collection "Ventriloquists In A Playground".

Second place was Cem Cako, of Germany, who studied at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Belgium. His collection "Salim-cil" was inspired by The Tuareg, an ethnic tribe of the Sahara.

Nadeesha Godamunne of Auckland University of Technology won the Mittelmoda Prize with her collection "Trompe L'oeil".

The prize gives her direct entry into the Mittelmoda fashion competition in Italy, in September - a highly sort-after position, as designers are chosen from more than 2000 entries.

Liz Ting, of Massey University, with her collection "Foe Crossing" won the Pacific Blue travel prize of return flights for two to Rarotonga.

The 28 finalists had been judged on Thursday by a panel comprising fashion consultant Ross Gamble, fashion and beauty editor for the Sunday magazine Katie Newton, chief designer of World Francis Hooper, Stefano Sopelza, of Mittelmoda, Italy and Margi Robertson, of Nom D.

Sopelza said Stern was a "talented designer" who had been able to develop his concept in a elegant and mature manner.

Hooper said: "These designers are creative, inspirational, uplifting and sexy.

"Its been a most wonderful and uplifting event."

 

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