Founding family back on the menu

Best Cafe new owner Jessica Marks with a plate of fish and chips, made just like her great...
Best Cafe new owner Jessica Marks with a plate of fish and chips, made just like her great grandfather Patrick Collins did. Photo: Linda Robertson.
That feeling someone is watching over you might creep most people out. But not Jessica Marks.

The 36-year-old has just taken possession of Dunedin’s historic Best Cafe — the cafe  her great-grandfather Patrick Collins established  in 1932.

"The idea of bringing the restaurant back into the family and continuing its  tradition is very exciting.

"It’s like when you go back into your family home. It’s knowing and very comfortable because I feel like I’m being looked over by my great-grandfather and his kids."

Miss Marks has been working in the hospitality industry  most of her life.

She grew up in Christchurch and lived in Auckland for several years before moving overseas to work in the yachting industry.

She did a lot of travelling until returning to New Zealand in 2010 to train as a chef.She went back overseas to cook privately for the likes of the Heineken family — owners of the Dutch brewing company — and Citigroup Private Bank chairman Michel de Carvalho.

"Although it’s been a wonderful adventure, I have never felt more ready to return home and put some roots down finally, and I am thrilled by the prospect of running my own business.

"On the odd occasion when I had a trip home to New Zealand, I would always come to Best Cafe and I would often sit in here and weirdly sort of think one day I’d love to own this place.

"There’s always been nostalgia knowing my grandmother worked in here when she was a little girl with all of her brothers and sisters.

"There’s a very special feeling coming into this place now that my grandparents have passed away."

In 1986, the business was sold after being in family hands for about 50 years, and has since been run by owners outside the family.

Nostalgia prompted Miss Marks to buy it back this year, and she officially took over the business last week.

"I have to pinch myself. All of a sudden, it just happens and you’re in the position of running it.

"It feels awesome. I feel very connected to family again because of that."

Miss Marks said working at the Best Cafe would be quite a contrast to her previous life, creating fine cuisine for very discerning customers.

"It’s a little bit different from fish and chips, but I have no intention of changing the menu at Best Cafe."

She said there would be some "little tweaks along the way" to some recipes to enhance flavours, but it was important not to make "noticeable" changes to the restaurant.

"The old recipe for how they made mayonnaise back in the 1930s and 1940s still exists and it’s awesome.

"The old traditions will stay, like the sauces and bread and butter. Those things are very important to keep, because people have been coming here since the 1940s and 1950s and they’re used to that.

"If the recipe is brilliant and it tastes brilliant, I’m not changing it."

john.lewis@odt.co.nz

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