Here lies a haven that enchants you into Middle-earth’s open arms, where waterfalls cascade from ice shelves and glaciers are so close you can taste them in the streams, where birds sing and play with glistening peaks as neighbours.
Earnslaw Burn is a must-do Te Wai Pounamu adventure. What would you prefer? A panoramic view worthy of a dream, more waterfalls you can count or dips in an iridescent, ice-melt river? What about, hear me out ... all three?
Contrary to the assumption that such breathtaking vistas require a gruelling expedition of 26-hour tramps, kilometre-wide river crossings and knee-deep mud, Earnslaw Burn only demands a relatively straightforward, slightly hellish, four- to six-hour walk.
The undulating track begins in beech forest dappled with sunlight and accompanied by the melodic chirps of its winged inhabitants. Despite being rooty, rocky and occasionally wet, the well-marked path is well-trodden, passing through meadows and trees (some of which enjoy falling down and covering the path). It climbs consistently with undulations. Overall, it’s around 1000m elevation, and like I mentioned, only slightly hellish. Along the way, small viewpoints offer glimpses of the approaching grandeur. The edge of the forest, where the valley opens up, is where the magic unfolds and signifies the end of the marked track.
To get to the head of the valley, take a ‘follow the slightly trampled tussock’ approach. Keep to a marginal strip 10m on either side of Earnslaw Burn, as private property spans the area. While some complete the walk just beyond the forest, pushing to the head of the valley rewards trampers with a close-up of waterfall-producing hanging glaciers and takes a further 12 hours. Day trippers should consider turning around at the bush line.
The trek crosses several side streams, skirts a waterfall and encounters taramea (giant speargrass) countless times, making gaiters a wise choice for leg protection.
Camping options exist near the river at the head of the valley, just don’t position yourself beneath an icy death path (ice can still fall in summer). There are boggy sections, so take care when selecting a campsite. Backcountry bathroom practices are essential due to the absence of facilities. Unfortunately, its a popular tramp and many aren’t accustomed to proper backcountry bathroom etiquette. For this reason, grab your water from side streams or straight from the source.
The valley loses the sun quickly, so expect an early night as you fall asleep to the sound of alpine activity. In the morning, the sun graces the ice-covered cliffs and slowly warms the area.
In the months when there’s limited daylight, it is cold. How do I know? Because my tea, boots, tent and socks froze solid overnight. My socks snapped when I tried to put them on. I couldn’t lace up my boots properly, but at least I could get my feet into the rock-hard bricks with holes. My friend Zack’s boots were so rock-hard, he had to defrost them under a glacier’s waterfall. It was one hell of a way to start the day.
If you arrive in the afternoon when the sun has already departed, it’s worth staying around to check out the panorama in the daylight (if you have enough time up your sleeve).
The return journey retraces your footsteps from the day before and wraps up in a similar timeframe.
Earnslaw Burn
Glenorchy, Otago
Han's Heck Level (rating of exertion required): 6/10 (The elbow sweat has begun. You’re adjusting your pack every few minutes and making funny noises at a particularly large step.)
Wow Factor (rating of views): 5/5
(Every track is sublime, just some are more so')
Getting There: Head out of Glenorchy on the Glenorchy Paradise Road. Turn right on to Lovers Leap Road just before Diamond Lake. The carpark is at the base of the track.
Distance: 8.3km one way (to the viewpoint), another 5km to the head of the valley.
Time: 4-6hrs one way (to the viewpoint), another 1-2hrs to the head of the valley.
Best season: Late spring-autumn, especially if venturing beyond the viewing spot, as the head of the valley is susceptible to avalanches and icefall.
Track type: One way.
Track amenities: Water available on the track.
Sleeping: Choose campsites wisely.
Access: Unsealed road and small carpark.
Starting your tramp
1. Create a safety plan
Identify potential hazards and establish how you’ll mitigate them.
Plan for rising rivers, unexpected storms, injuries or delays.
2. Leave your intentions
Share details like your planned route, track and expected check-in time.
3. Check, Check, Check
Regularly check weather, avalanche and track conditions.
Screenshot or print the long-range forecast for multi-day tramps.
4. Pack appropriately
Ensure your packing aligns with your safety needs.
Consider the potential for hypothermia, especially in cold, wet and windy conditions.
