Luxury on icy frontiers

The enormity and beauty of the never-ending icebergs still remains with Alex Hannagan. PHOTOS:...
The enormity and beauty of the never-ending icebergs still remains with Alex Hannagan. PHOTOS: SUPPLIED
Happy Feet galore! Not only does Alex Hannagan get transfixed by the beauty of Antarctica’s wildlife, she takes a brave dip in its cool waters.

It is almost hard to believe that only a few months ago I was lucky enough to become an honoured member of the seventh-continent club.

Accomplished by embarking on a luxury expedition cruise, to the wonderland of Antarctica, it was a truly life-changing experience, evoking powerful senses of accomplishment, connection and gratitude that will stay with me forever.

Off I flew to the heat of Santiago, Chile, to spend a couple of relaxing days before really heading off on an adventure of a lifetime.

From the moment we arrive at the Mandarin Oriental Santiago, it is made very clear that I am now in the safe and professional hands of Silversea Cruises until I am back at the airport to fly home. This feeling is highlighted by the lovely accommodation provided, a beautifully appointed cruise ship check-in area to collect our cruise documents, providing the option of sipping on Champagne while doing so — why not! The tone is truly set for the next unforgettable 10 days at sea.

Alex takes her first steps on the "magical" place.
Alex takes her first steps on the "magical" place.
After a three-hour charter flight to get us from Santiago to Puerto Williams, the southernmost town in the world, our 274-guest Silver Wind ship awaits. Everyone is super excited to get aboard, explore and set sail. There is just something so relaxing and therapeutic about unpacking, or if you so desire, getting your suitcase unpacked for you, knowing that you will not have to even think about your luggage as the notion of "unpack only once" happily sinks in.

When I describe "getting your suitcase unpacked for you", this is one of many examples of this stunning Silversea experience.

An in-suite butler gets your shoes shined, books you into La Dame, the ship’s signature French restaurant (a must I might add) or orders you a glass of your favourite tipple.

As Iklas (my butler) pours my first glass of Pommery Champagne, its signature glass of sparkles, I understand very quickly why the butlers have a reputation for warm and engaging yet discreet personalities, exceeding guest expectations and creating always a world-class experience.

ODT GRAPHIC
ODT GRAPHIC
We set sail not long after, knowing soon we will be crossing the unpredictable and possible notorious Drake Passage, a body of water located between South America’s Cape Horn and the South Shetland Islands of Antarctica. Despite this, everyone appears to be in great spirits.

Expeditions get amazingly close to the towering icebergs.
Expeditions get amazingly close to the towering icebergs.
Before leaving Dunedin I happened to be having a conversation with someone about my impending affair. I was told "the Drake Passage can be known as the ‘Drake Tax’ for a reason. It is the price you pay to have the privilege of being a visitor in such a beautiful place in the world". These words stay at the forefront of my mind. Well equipped with my Larson’s Pharmacy-made travel-sickness pills that I have heard work wonders, I am set to go.

Luckily for us, our crossing to the "Heaven for Marine Animals" is only graded a two out of 10.

Seeing the snow and ice wonderland approaching from my suite balcony brings a pinch-myself moment that we have actually arrived at this special place, excited we can soon embark on our first of many Zodiac experiences.

What is a Zodiac for that you may not know? It is a small sturdy yet agile inflatable boat, allowing up to 10 passengers at one time. As we glide through icy waters, passing pretty fragments of broken glaciers, the moment is surreal.

We keep manoeuvring through the frigid ocean, taking everything in.

A humpback whale shows its flukes, saying hello.
A humpback whale shows its flukes, saying hello.
Right before us we see towering icebergs glittering like diamonds in the sunlight and whales breaching in the distance. I just think this really cannot get any better — then it just does.

Each day we venture deeper into this mysterious and magical realm, encountering all manner of wildlife, particularly loving the land encounters off the Zodiac, letting us witness a true viewing of the 2007 animated film Happy Feet.

The real "Happy Feet" loving life.
The real "Happy Feet" loving life.
I am completely transfixed on the abundance of these creatures and their distinctive waddle and beautiful black and white plumage standing out against the stark white landscape.

As we trudge through the thick abundant snow, seals are basking on the ice, or in contrast having animated discussions amongst themselves, clearly excited about some antic.

A sea lion takes a siesta in the Antarctic sun.
A sea lion takes a siesta in the Antarctic sun.
We all marvel at the resilience of these lovely souls, who have adapted to survive one of the harshest environments on Earth.

Each time we head back on the ship, we are welcomed to the warmth of hot chocolates, with the option of adding a splash of Baileys. We all appear to have rubber arms, when in Rome (I mean Antarctica we all say), warming us to the core instantly.

The next hard decision we face is where shall we dine? La Terrazza, true Italian fare is calling our name.

One cannot embark on an Antarctic cruise without pondering, discussing or making one’s self do a polar plunge!

As the eager of us sign up, our expedition leader Michael remarks over the ship speaker, "You can do this, it is all in the mind". When it comes to crunch time, we wait our turn to jump off the pontoon, wrapped up in our ship bathrobes.

Gentoo penguins display their plumage.
Gentoo penguins display their plumage.
One, two, three, jump!

Before I know it, I am in the 0.3degC water and clambering up the ladder as fast as my limbs will permit. Adrenaline coursing through my veins, I cannot fathom what I have actually just done — I am putting this down to complete brain freeze. Pins and needles tingle at my hands and toes and a shot of vodka is on offer by bar staff if so required.

I instantly take measures to jump in the heated pool, before progressing to one of the spa pools, my body heating up slowly. On cloud nine for the remainder of the night, adrenaline in full swing, I am so chuffed I ran with "mind over matter".

Feeling like we have unlocked some of the many secrets of this enigmatic continent, the time has come again to make our way through the Drake Passage.

The score this time is a four out of 10 — nothing that my Larson’s pills, sliced green apple and crystalised ginger cannot fix, administered by the one and only Iklas.

A black-browed albatross soars above the ship.
A black-browed albatross soars above the ship.

Back at Puerto Williams, where our voyage began, we sadly say our farewells to Silver Wind and the amazing worldly team that made it all happen.

On the charter flight back to Santiago, I scroll through the thousands of photos and videos I have taken that will be able to "take me back" to the beauty and majesty of this remote corner of the world.

Returning to base, I am exhilarated with a new-found appreciation, eager to share my knowledge and discovery with others. I am happy and slightly bewildered in what I have just seen and experienced.

Home is where the heart is and I always love returning, my memory bank full (for now) of found memories that will never expire and last a lifetime.

-  Alex Hannagan is a travel agent.