In this week's Reader Postcard Anthony Rodger explores the holy city of Varnasi, India.
I yearn to travel in time. I long to see the past.
Varanasi, India is the closest I have come in my quest.
Known as one of the holiest places in India, Varanasi is perfect to experience Indian people going about their lives in roughly the manner they have done for centuries.
The city sprawls back in a maze of bustling alleyways and streets from the ghats (steps) of the sacred Ganges River. Hindus believe that the water of the Ganges cleanses the soul of all past sins, and that it can cure the ill.
Slowly walking the ghats one morning, I witnessed rituals as mundane, yet fascinating, as an old man brushing his teeth and another performing near-naked yoga in a trance-like state.
All the while thousands of people, each carrying a bucket and puja (offerings), disrobe and bathe in the dirty brown water.
Some chant prayers. Others just like to play.
While walking the bazaars (shopping streets) it is not uncommon for a procession of men to be carrying a stretcher holding the beautifully wrapped body of a deceased loved-one.
It is carried to Manikarnika Ghat and a series of rituals are performed by the males in the family.
Tradition dictates that women are not allowed at this site as they may cry.
The body is placed on a neat stack of wood and lit from beneath from the eternal flame housed in a charred, eerie building overlooking the ghat. Up to 20 bodies may be burning in the area at once.
I was captivated at this ritual as it seemed "right".
However, the sight at water's edge of men and young boys, sometimes knee-deep in piles of human ash, was more disturbing.
Here they hope to find a gold tooth, ring - anything that can be exchanged for money - before the ashes are swept into the Ganges.
Earning a rupee is vital to life here.
Young children approach tourists with confidence beyond their years to sell postcards or small gifts.
Their mothers watch intently from a distance, holding the next in line to this job, hoping for a sale so they may eat that evening.
It is a stimulating and challenging city.
Looking back at my photos now, I cannot help but imagine that a photo taken hundreds of years ago would not look much different to those I have just taken.
Maybe I did travel in time.
• Anthony Rodger is a Dunedin resident
