Going with the flow

A fine example of Brisbane's gracious 19th-century architecture is seen in the Treasury building,...
A fine example of Brisbane's gracious 19th-century architecture is seen in the Treasury building, now the Treasury Casino, on the right, is in stark contrast to the towering Next Hotel at the far left, Australia's first smart-phone operated hotel....
Jude Hathaway on the Victoria Bridge with a bank of Brisbane  lights behind her.
Jude Hathaway on the Victoria Bridge with a bank of Brisbane lights behind her.
Veiled by purple-flowered jacaranda trees and dwarfed by the high-rise buildings of the city is...
Veiled by purple-flowered jacaranda trees and dwarfed by the high-rise buildings of the city is one of the many Brisbane apartment blocks in a prime location beside the Brisbane River.
Entertainers, such as this living silver statue, add life to Brisbane's bustling Queen St Mall,...
Entertainers, such as this living silver statue, add life to Brisbane's bustling Queen St Mall, which cranks up on Saturdays.
One of the  massive wool store buildings of Brisbane's New Farm area, built in the 1920s and...
One of the massive wool store buildings of Brisbane's New Farm area, built in the 1920s and which has been converted into apartments. In the foreground are private homes.

It might have been the fashion, or the company, the river or the food. Whatever it was, it made for a magic couple of days in Brisbane for Jude Hathaway.

The invitation to spend two days and three nights in sub-tropical Brisbane was pretty irresistible.

Most compelling was the main purpose of the trip, to attend the opening of the fabulous ''Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion'' exhibition at the magnificent Gallery of Modern Art.

For New Zealand fashion lovers who are visiting Queensland in the next couple of months the exhibition, which closes on February 15, is mandatory!

As the ''star'' attraction of the visit, it was natural that the exhibition and the events surrounding it, took up much of the first day (coverage of which appeared in the ODT last month and can be found online).

The gallery on Brisbane's South Bank is just across the sweeping Victoria bridge over the Brisbane River from Queen St Mall in the CBD, where the brand new Next Hotel, where I stayed, is located.

The mall, which has an array of international flagship stores, bustles and at the weekend becomes a stage for street entertainers.

Next Hotel, incidentally, is the only smartphone-operated hotel in Australia and one of just two in the world.

But, the hotel is also user-friendly to non-smartphone users!

The bridge walk was impressive, as Carly Flynn, Auckland journalist and television presenter, and I discovered on that first day.

We agreed, however, that re-crossing it by night in high heels, after the exciting ''Future Beauty'' opening event was not our most sane idea despite the breathtaking bank of city lights that was our beacon.

Organising our trip from the Auckland office of Tourism and Events Queensland was Rachael Titter, New Zealand marketing manager.

It was a full, balanced itinerary, both of us packing in quite a lot in the all-too-brief stay.

''Saturday morning is free. Any ideas as to what you would like to do,'' she had asked at the planning stage.

Because the Brisbane River is such a feature of the city (population 2 million) - and, indeed, the reason for the city's existence - I opted for a river cruise while Carly visited some of the many Saturday morning markets.

Consequently, Saturday saw me soaking up the early morning sun at the stern of one of the 19 CityCats that pick up and set down commuters and tourists up and down the waterway.

The cruise was by way of a travel card that provides free access to the TransLink city bus and ferry services.

Catching the ferry at North Quay, a stone's throw away from the hotel, the next two hours of cruising to Hamilton, on the river's lower reaches and return, provided a scintillating new perspective of Brisbane city life and what it and the river offers.

This is a waterway that, like a well-heeled dowager, moves effortlessly through its environment with cool, calm confidence.

It can be generous and big-hearted. It can also be fickle, unpredictable and wayward.

One of the world's most ancient waterways - said to be 400 million years old - its propensity to flood during heavy rains had posed a hazard for the city since its beginnings.

But the completion of the Lake Wivenhoe Dam in 1984 gave property developers renewed confidence.

However, in January 2011 along came deluges which the dam could not contain and the river burst its banks again causing millions of dollars worth of damage.

But this Saturday it was benignly gracious as it curved around the central business district, and moved languidly on through the northern suburbs - or river villages as they are often called - on its journey to Moreton Bay.

Things were busy.

Rowers were out on their training runs, their coach boats fussing around the skiffs.

Kayakers and jet skiers were also enjoying the river's calm mood and sparkling water, cyclists rode the riverside cycle ways, yachts prepared for action.

At one stop a family quartet came aboard with their bikes and water bottles, disembarking a couple of stops later on the opposite bank for more cycling action.

And en route a visual history of the architecture of the Queensland capital unfolded.

The massive high-rise office blocks and apartment buildings of the CBD dwarf majestic colonial buildings such as the Treasury building.

Built in the late 1880s it was converted - some would say slightly ironically - into Brisbane's first official casino in the 1990s.

There are the array of ''Queenslander'' houses from the large and opulent to the modest, with their timber weather boards and corrugated iron roofs, standing resolutely beside contemporary neighbours with their mainly glass facades.

These were often veiled from sight by the jacaranda trees, decorated to kill in their vibrant purple blooms.

Further down river at Teneriffe, the former farming area and commercial hub has enjoyed an urban resurgence.

Here the massive brick wool stores built early last century have now been converted into stylish apartments.

These vie for attention with the new modern apartment blocks that have also sprung up.

The bridges are yet another feature of the river.

The stand-out is the Story bridge that joins Kangaroo Point with the inner-city suburb of Fortitude Valley.

Construction of the picturesque cantilevered bridge took place from both banks and was completed in 1940.

Today it hosts guided adventure climbs and abseiling. At night in its livery of coloured lights, it is a real landmark.

Back on land, further discoveries came that afternoon when we headed to Fortitude Valley, the quirky inner city urban village where in leafy James St we saw the sophisticated side of the area.

It also has a raw, grungy edge in its nightclub and entertainment area around the corner in Brunswick St.

Lunch in the relaxed surrounds of Harveys, where we received a warm welcome from the owner, former Dunedin man P.J. McMillan and his team, was a delightful indulgence.

The busy restaurant, which relies on fresh seasonal produce is open from dinner until late and also has tables in its sheltered outdoor courtyard area.

There followed an intensive tour of James St's fabulous upmarket fashion and lifestyle boutiques, which are another drawcard for the area.

This is where there is a concentration of stores - many of them owner-operated - that stock the top Australian brands along with top international labels.

Among popular Australian labels that call James St home are Sass and Bide, Ksubi and Gorman.

Christine Miris, one of the Brisbane City Council's volunteer Brisbane greeters, was our tour guide.

These guides are loaded with local knowledge and anecdotes.

To end the Brisbane sojourn, Carly - who is, incidentally, the perfect ''wingman'' - and I walked to the Jellyfish Restaurant at the upmarket Riverside Centre, Eagle St, for dinner.

The Jellyfish, in its magical setting on the riverbank and with views of the nearby Story bridge, was named Australia's best seafood restaurant at the 2013 National Savour Australia Restaurant and Catering Awards.

Not only was the food good. It also provided the perfect setting to toast and farewell this fascinating city on the river.

Jude Hathaway travelled to Brisbane as the guest of Tourism and Events Queensland and Virgin Airlines.

 


If you go

Virgin Australia flies direct from Dunedin to Brisbane three days a week and offers a variety of fare types.

These include:

• Saver lite: a great low fare, no checked baggage and you can still buy snacks and drinks from the in-flight menu and hire a Samsung Galaxy tablet for inflight entertainment.

• Economy saver: a 23kg check-in baggage allowance. Buy snacks and drinks from the in-flight menu and hire a Samsung Galaxy tablet for inflight entertainment.

• Economy flexi: Make changes to the flight up to 24 hours before scheduled departure time. Fare includes Samsung Galaxy tablet, 23kg of checked-in baggage and complimentary food and beverages.

• Business class: to be introduced in March 2015, will offer priority check-in, baggage allowance (2x32kg), lounge access and superior on-board comfort.

• On flights across the Tasman, passengers can access free wireless in-flight entertainment using their own phone, tablet or laptop.


 

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